Archive for Paintapalooza Paintball Forum
 


       Paintapalooza Forum Index -> Ideas
Grunt_98c

Graphite for lube

i found this from NN's website:
Graphite for lube.
Using graphite to lubricate the hammer/rear bolt. This is a very useful thing to do. Not only does it wear down the inside of your recievers less, it makes for a smoother more consistant cycle. First off, your internals need to be polished. Next you need to get high quality, extra fine graphite. You can find this at hardware stores and hobby shops. To apply the graphite, put a few drops on each side of the bolt, assembe your gun, then manually cock it and then pull the trigger. Do this for a few minutes. Now when you cock your gun back all the way, you will notice the o-ring on the hammer is black from all the graphite, don't worry, the graphite wont harm it. But now it when the gun is cocked back, put 1 drop of oil in the hammer o-ring, then three in the ASA. Now dry fire the gun about 30-50 times go get the graphite worked into the receivers and hammer, and o-rings sealing proporly. If you did this correctly you will now notice when you cock your gun, the motion feels much smoother, and should be easier to pull back. Less friction is a good thing.
tigman250

i've heard this too i've often thought about putting graphite in a gravity fed hopper to help ball feed but i don't know how it would affect ball flight (because we all know what oil in the barrel does) but graphite is dry so i don't know what effect it would have. if i think of it next time i'm in town i'll pick up some graphite and try it
sinisterNorth

I may have to try this after I polish the internals. Sounds easy and helpful.
Trogdor

I've tried it. It works pretty well with a 98.
Nickodemus

Graphite lubricant is great for locks. Another good dry lubricant is silicon. Both of these also come in a spray can from automotive stores. If you polish the internals (down to bare metal), before putting a lube on I suggest you Militec-1 treat with a hairdryer. I don't normally push a product, but it is very effective. I treated all my metal toys that need to be corrosion resistant and slick with it and I love it. It's a metal conditioner, not an oil (which merely baths the metal). It works inside the pores of the metal (like rain-X does glass) so it doesn't change the tolerances. You can wipe the surface dry when your done and you need no oil. No oil means nothing for dirt and sand to stick to. You don't need that, so I wouls still put some lubricant on anyway. If you know anyone living in the sand get them a bottle.
http://www.militec1.com/
Unicorn

Militec-1 is a great lube. I don't think it's damaging to orings either. I use it on all my knives and guns (real ones too). It's also an engine oil additive, so you might be able to find it at auto parts stores. I'm wary of using graphite though. The Army had some issues with Soldiers using it at the beginning of the war. Apparently it caused more wear on the aluminum frame of the M9 pistol, and the upper reciever of the M16 and M4. It makes sense though, graphite is harder than aluminum.
Nickodemus

Just don't use the militec as an oil. you still need an oil, militec is just a metal conditioner. Heat up the metal with a hairdryer (your oven on the lowest setting with the door open is still too hot), slather it down with militec, then let it cool. Since it works on the molecular level, all the magic happens in cooling. In my experience, if you treat a surface with it 3 times, you will not have to again.
They started putting militec as an additive in destruction derby engines so that when the oil fell out it would still run.
Unicorn

Militec will work as an oil, especially after treating the metal with it, but even if you don't. That's why it's recommended by Benchmade for use on it's knives.
Nickodemus

^ I have had it get a little more grimey overtime then good oil in the firearms. I either use a little oil, or wipe it dry so its just the militec (after treated).
tarallo

Work with a cocker?
Grunt_98c

for a cocker..my friend use's vaseline. he say's it works great with it.
tigman250

Grunt_98c wrote:
for a cocker..my friend use's vaseline. he say's it works great with it.


and if you get chapped lips you just have to kiss your gun Laughing
tarallo

Grunt_98c wrote:
for a cocker..my friend use's vaseline. he say's it works great with it.

Yeah, I use that for my cocker. Hehe, vaseline for a cocker....
Nickodemus

If a cocker has rails that take grease, try white lithium - And what's better then white lithium grease? White lithium grease with militec. Yep, they make it.
Unicorn

Nickodemus wrote:
^ I have had it get a little more grimey overtime then good oil in the firearms. I either use a little oil, or wipe it dry so its just the militec (after treated).


Hmm... I haven't had that problem I don't think, even in the desert. But I was comparing it to Break Free CLP, and the cheap Army replacement brand. Both of which aren't nearly as good as lubing or preventing dirt buildup as Militec-1.
cdacda13

OOOLD
Then again, I am a former (real) model98.net member, and all the ideas you post are from there.
Grunt_98c

i know the ideas are from model98.net...just want to help people who weren't a member of model98.net that own a 98c.
cdacda13

Grunt_98c wrote:
i know the ideas are from model98.net...just want to help people who weren't a member of model98.net that own a 98c.

I know, I know, not enough people found the place before it went down.
And the "new" one sucks so bad. So much bitching between members.
Grunt_98c

i know...just joined it because i thought it would be like the original model98.net...i was so so wrong THumb down
Nickodemus

Unicorn wrote:
Nickodemus wrote:
^ I have had it get a little more grimey overtime then good oil in the firearms. I either use a little oil, or wipe it dry so its just the militec (after treated).


Hmm... I haven't had that problem I don't think, even in the desert. But I was comparing it to Break Free CLP, and the cheap Army replacement brand. Both of which aren't nearly as good as lubing or preventing dirt buildup as Militec-1.

Did you ever let your weapon sit for awhile in storage after cleaning and generous relubing with militec. Thats when it turns sour, and it is hardly noticable, just a little darker color. A quality light machine oil just seems cleaner and slicker to me, after you use the militec. I use the militec only as a metal conditioner. If I had to live in the sand, after treating the metal I would wipe off all oil so the sand had nothing to stick to.
Unicorn

Ahhh, that might be it. I force myself to resist my tendency to overlube. With Militec, I usually just use a light coat on everything that moves, and if I am about to go to the range, then I'll put a medium coating on some of the moving parts. For knives, I just put a single drop on the pivot. I used to have the habit of overlubing. With any oil it will attract dust and dirt. I used to think that a lot of oil (Break Free CPL to be specific) would stop carbon buildup. Quite the opposite actually. Learned that lesson the hard way, but even so, it's a bad habit. The only time I now use a heavy coat is when I'm oiling for storage when they will sit for a longish time. Then it's time for a cleaning before use. Even then, it's only on the steel parts that can rust.

I have used it on the drive spring, rear bolt, and connecting rod. I don't put any through the ASA because I'm paranoid about what it might to to to the orings. I did soak a tank oring, and a rear bolt oring in it for a a week with no problem, but I don't know what it might do to the ones inside the valve, and those are the ones that are a pain to replace.
^Pirate^

Using graphite to lubricate the hammer/rear bolt. This is a very useful thing to do. Not only does it wear down the inside of your receivers less, it makes for a smoother more consistent cycle. First off, your internals need to be polished and free of any oil. Next you need to get high quality, extra fine graphite. You can find this at hardware stores and hobby shops. To apply the graphite, put a few drops on each side of the bolt, assemble your gun, then manually cock it and then pull the trigger. Do this for a few minutes. Now when you cock your gun back all the way, you will notice the O-ring on the hammer is black from all the graphite, don't worry, the graphite wont harm it. But now it when the gun is cocked back, put 1 drop of oil in the hammer O-ring, then three in the ASA. Now dry fire the gun about 30-50 times go get the graphite worked into the receivers and hammer, and O-rings sealing properly. If you did this correctly you will now notice when you cock your gun, the motion feels much smoother, and should be easier to pull back. Less friction is a good thing.

Some Notes:

Using graphite as lubricant for your rear bolt will help prevent this.

Also make sure you don't use too much graphite, which can get into your sear and trigger pins, casuing your trigger and sear to stick.


If I can find a picture I'll post that too, anyways this is the ORIGINAL m98 Article by NN, good thing I had the whole site saved to my computer, except for pictures.
Nickodemus

I wonder, since graphite is a dry lubricant, will it loose effectiveness and gunk up when you mix an oil with it in your marker?
Militec treating + quality light machine oil>dry silicon lube>dry graphite lube?
Overlubing a firearm barrel can cause big problems. Liquids cannot compress like gases, so the bullet can get locked in the barrel on exit and then the chamber pressure blows the receiver up in your face. However, outside the bore, I used to slather down the metal of my firearms with the militec before shooting, that way when they heated up, the militec slicked around, and when they cooled they were treated again.

       Paintapalooza Forum Index -> Ideas
Page 1 of 1
Create your own free forum | Buy a domain to use with your forum