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Grunt_98c

mech speed 98c idea

would this be a good setup for a mech speed 98c. i'm stll thinking it over...
.lots of milling. take as much weight of the 98c that i can. try to get the 98c to under 4 pounds without the barrel, tank or hopper. but with everthing else still on the gun.
.an old style autococker reg or a Bob Long Torpedo Reg with a Vigilante Spring, High Pressure.
.rufus dawg center feeder.
.cp rail
.dye airport.
.macro line.
.Crossfire 68ci 4500psi.
.Toxic Performance Double Trigger
.a bunch of trigger mods(magnetic trigger and much more)
.led light mod.
.dye stickie grip.
.see if i can do anything with the 98c's valve.
.either lighten the back bolt or get a Dark Horizon Lite Titanium Hammer.
. Full Boar Shadow Rear Cocking Knob.
.maybe even shorten the cocking stroke.
...what you think??



 
You Wont See Me

This is more of an Upgrades & Customizing thing, but I'll leave it for now.
Grunt_98c

You Wont See Me wrote:
This is more of an Upgrades & Customizing thing, but I'll leave it for now.

i'm going to get another 98c soon. this is what i want to do for it....dose this setup look good for speedball???
cdacda13

Find out NN's website, and find out how he made the walkable 98c. I think he had a "how to" on there
You Wont See Me

nn=natural newbie
cdacda13

You Wont See Me wrote:
nn=natural newbie

He knows, Hes a member of model98. He made a thread there telling people to come here.
Grunt_98c

cdacda13 wrote:
He knows, Hes a member of model98. He made a thread there telling people to come here.

yea is was a formur member. i'll look but hopefully it wasen't lost when the website wen't down.
cdacda13

Look for the sticky "NN's stuff" on the fake model98
Grunt_98c

cdacda13 wrote:
Look for the sticky "NN's stuff" on the fake model98

lol...i posted that..lol.
Smitty

Link?
sinisterNorth

Sounds good. I'm not a fan of macro line though.
Grunt_98c

i found some stuff that i posted and found. it mite help me and you guy's....
http://www.tippmannowners.com/showthread.php?t=997
http://model98.proboards40.com/in...ion=display&thread=1119851302
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/escross/index.html
....i hate tippmann owners forum, sorry but they toke down the thread that helps you know how to make you 98c walkable. thank god i saved it to my computer...lol.
Grunt_98c

i also forgot to add this to my mech speed 98c setup...
.double ball latches
...still thinking about this one, saw a guy's 98c on pbnation with it in his own 98c. sound's like a good idea.
cdacda13

Grunt_98c wrote:
i also forgot to add this to my mech speed 98c setup...
.double ball latches
...still thinking about this one, saw a guy's 98c on pbnation with it in his own 98c. sound's like a good idea.

Its only smart to do that if you have a halo/reloader B on there.
sinisterNorth

It does sound like a good idea.
Grunt_98c

if i do all this to my 98c i wonder how fast it would shoot. that's why i thought of doing it, it just a thought anyways.
Grunt_98c

here is that post how to make your mech 98c walkable.....

There has been many people wanting to know how to make their mehanical triggers walk-able, so I decided that I'm up to the task to put together an article that has it all.

Step 1: This is for those people that still have single triggers. You're not going to be able to walk a single trigger, so first we need to make a double. This can be easily dont by cutting off the bottom where it starts to bend, drilling a small hole up through the middle, and glueing something round up there. One easy thing to use is a hex key. Be carefull when doing this because if the hole is too small then you can crack the trigger. After you are finished drilling it, find a allen wrench that fis snug, but so you can get it up there. (god that sounds stupid) Use either epoxy or JB Weld to glue it in, then measure for length and cut off the part where it bends. Me and RedBull both did this and currently use it on our setups. In fact I had a GTA double and sold it after using this.



Step 2: If you already have a double trigger then the first thing that we are going to do is get rid of the slop in the pull. This can be done easily by finding a drill bit with a diameter of .1285 inches, or if you cant tell, one that fits more snug into the pin hole in the trigger. You want to put this in the front one from which the trigger pivots on. This will make it less wobbly, and shorter in some cases.


Step 3: The next thing that we are going to do is go ahead and make a rear trigger stop. This will get rid of all the excess pull after the sear is engaged. There are a few ways to do these and I will start off with the rear. (hehe) This can be done by tapping the R/T hole, and putting a screw in there. The right size tap for this hole is a 1/4-20, and then you need a 1/4 20 threaded bolt. You can either put the head inside or outside. If it is outside then it will be easier to adjust, but if it is inside then it will look nicer. It is up to the user. Or you can use your single trigger guard. To use your single trigger guard, cut it near the end where it goes into the bottom of the trigger. You can now do a few things, either A- just file it down and do not use any screw, just use the plastic. B- File it down until it is flush, drill out a hole and tap it using a set screw (recommended 5/16, with 4-40 tap), or C- do the same as "B" but use a regular screw. Either way will be fine.


Step 4: Now we are going to make a front trigger stop. This will help to shorten your pre trigger pull. There area few ways to do this. The "best" way to do this is to drill a hole through the part of your trigger where the spring rests. Then you can tap it and put a set screw in there and have it fully adjustable. You can even go another step and drill a a small hole in the bottom of the gun to make it adjustable from the outside. Another way to do this (or if your lazy) is to apply some duck tape or something on the power tube between that and the trigger. I highly do not recommend this because it is not very good cosmetic wise, and it is a pain to adjust by layering tape. Here is a few pics of some Evil triggers that have set-screws...



Step 5: The next thing to do is to polish the recievers where the trigger moves on. This helps to get rid of the powdercoat and it will make your pull smoother and possibly lighter. This can be done either with a dremel and buffing wheel, or steel wool. With either application you should use mothers or some other polish.



Step 6: The next thing to do is to change some springs. I suggest either getting rid of your trigger spring, or replacing it with a pen spring. It will work fine with no spring because the sear will reset it, but if you dont want it flopping around when you have no air in it, and it is not cocked, then go ahead and throw one in. Another thing that you can do, but I don't necessarely reccomend is to put an extra link in your sear spring. This will make the sear lighter and and in turn the trigger pull. If you do this wrong though it can lead to double firing, so only do this if you have a good understanding of the gun. Another thing that you can do, but I certainly do not recommend is replacing your sear spring with orthodontic rubber bands. These wear out and can lead to double firing. Some people swear by this mod though so try it out and see if you like it. The last spring that can be changed is the drive spring. You can either replace it with the green one from the maddman kit, or the lpk rear cocking apparatus. Either will lessen the weight put onto the sear, making it easier to trip.




Step 7: Practice, practice, practice... Practice, and more practice.. There ya go NN...


This should make your trigger pull very nice, and if done right, probably walk-able. I take no responsibility if you ruin any part of your gun by doing any of these mods. Thanks to Evil-98 for letting me use his picture.. And NN and _m98_ for their hel
....hope this helps...it sure is going to help me.
^Pirate^

I have an intellilink mod for mech's around here somewhere, hit me up tomorrow morning, and if I still have it I'll send it to ya.
^Pirate^

Here it is, it's not he one I had, but here's commander cool's "Smart Feed" Mod.

Heres what you`ll need:
1 microswitch
2 grub screws
approx. 20" of insulated copper wire
approx. 8" heat shrink tubing
super glue (yes!)
dremel

To get started, attatch 10" of copper wire to each prong of microswitch(most will come with wires attatched but you may need to solder). The microswitch will be used to activate the hopper. Next,disassemble your 98 and remove all internals. Have right reciever facing inside up. Use a cutting bit on your dremel to cut a small space for your switch to rest in just after the small opening for the response trigger piston. Do the same to the left reciever. Set switch in the space youve created and put recievers back together to make sure it fits. Take one of your grub screws and glue the head to the microswitch`s push button (this will extend from the switch through the R/T piston sleeve to the trigger). Great, now place a small amount of super glue on the side of your switch and postion it in the dremeled space so the grub screw is suspended in the r/t piston sleeve. Let dry. Next your going to need to dremel a small hole in the right reciever where the r/t gas fitting would go (down and to the left of the end cap, theres a small indented circle). Use a 1/8" drill bit. Run the copper wires from the switch through this hole and out to the other side of the reciever and strip about 1/2" of the insulation off the ends of the wires. Run the ends of the wires through a segment of heat shrink tubing but leave the stripped ends exposed. Now you need to redirect some stock wiring in your hopper. Remove the battery cap and battery. You will notice one red and one black wire running from the battery snap. Cut which ever wire is longer down the middle of the exposed section. Strip about 1/2" of the insulation off the ends of the cut wire. Tie up the loose ends. Twist the stripped wire from one of the hopper wires to one of the microswitch wires. Do the same to the remaining two ends. Wrap connections with electrical tape. Next slip that segment of heat shrink tubing over the two connections. Use a lighter or other means of heat to warp the tubing around your wiring (hold flame about 1/2" away from tubing, it just needs to get warm, not melt.) Ok, your microswitch and hopper are now connected and the wiring is insulated. The last step involves drilling and tapping your trigger. Replace the two primary trigger pins into the right reciever and install your trigger. Mark where the trigger needs to be drilled in order to for the drilled hole to be level with the r/t piston sleeve. Use the proper sized drill bit (according to the size of the grub screw used) to drill a small hole at the marked position. Thread the screw into the drilled hole. This screw will activate the switch when the trigger is pulled back. Adjust the depth so the switch is activated at the very back of your trigger pull. Replace all internals and reassemble marker. Turn your hopper on. It should not activate. Pull back your trigger. Your hopper should activate. Hope this helps some people out.





Grunt_98c

that is a very good mod Salut . did you put that on your gun????
Grunt_98c

http://www.tippmann.com/players/f...rum_posts.asp?TID=129173&PN=1
this is almost almost what i want to do for my mech speed 98c.
^Pirate^

Grunt_98c wrote:
that is a very good mod Salut . did you put that on your gun????

Yes, and that link you posted, I did that too.
^Pirate^

First, you're going to want it to be really light, so do this(some parts may be skipped.) Also this should include how to shorten your cocking stroke.

I drilled 17 - 3/8" holes in the grip handle. then i ground out any unnecessary lugs or excess material in the grip, and around the vertical adapter. I took my dial venier calipers and measured around all the seams and ground out all thick lips and made the seams the same thickness all around the inside. i ground away half of the slot where the linkage rod slides. the pistol grip is about 1/8" smaller (my dye3 grips just slide on now). both front and rear sights are comletely gone. i took out the o-ring that the hammer hits on the return cocking stroke and put in 3 rubber washers ( that shortened the stroke approx. .150") then i shortened the rear bolt (hammer) .025 of an inch. i also filled in the slot in the sear so it dosen't slide it just piviots. that took .100 of an inch off the hammer travel. i put a trigger stop in but it takes out the trigger slop before you pull(my trigger has approx. .010" travel before it trips the sear, and only about 1/8" total travel). both sight dovetails are gone and i have a ccm spyder clamping center feed neck. i used "Quick Steel" to fill in the cocking slot and to make the mounting surface for the center feed. the stock hammer from the full boar rear cocking system is lighter than the tippmann hammer, but i turned mine down .010 of an inch (not much weight taken off) but it never rubs on the inside if the receivers - less drag. i use the maddman green spring.

Now, you'll need to lighten your trigger pull...

Ok, first take out your sear spring and your trigger return spring, now from here thes four things you can do, you'll choose two, whichver you trust more...

1 - Cut old trigger return spring and put it on lower stop for the double trigger.(The one in the back of the guard, I did this because I felt the return was a little slow...)

2- No trigger return spring.

3- Use three orthodontic rubber bands(for braces) as a sear spring.

4- Use the clicky pen spring for the sear spring.

Once you've done this, make more stops, then polish your trigger area, next find a drill bit that has a shank that fits the hole perfectly(refer to pics as needed.) This should lighten the pull considerably.

I'll update this with more later.

Disclaimer: blah blah blah I am not responsible if you blah blah blah screw up your blah blah marker... blah blah blah.


PICS:


cdacda13

OMG I thought of the intelli'd tippmann a long time ago, but its nice to see actually did it.
^Pirate^

cdacda13 wrote:
OMG I thought of the intelli'd tippmann a long time ago, but its nice to see actually did it.

I know I know I know a lot of people thought of it.

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