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NN stuff....

here is some stuff that i have on my computer from NN and for people who like to see some of this stuff and need help with mods.....





First off, you will need some materials and recources.

Needed Materials
Rear bolt to modify.
Low Pressure valve spring from Ballistic Sports.
Maddman spring kit, green spring, to modify.
Vertical adapter, prefferably with the T-fitting.
LP chamber or equivalent.
Decent regulator.
LP valve or stock valve to modify.
A drill, with a 3/8" bit, or something close in size.
Helpful Materials/Recources
1/16' to 1/8" pipe thread adaptor (If attemping to modify the regular VA, which is NOT reccomended. (male-male fitting).
Access to a lathe and drill press
Access to a Mill
Getting the parts you need

A few parts are a must to get this working. A LP kit valve spring from Ballistic sports can be ordered for $5. Call them up, they are very friendly and have speedy service. A Maddman spring kit can be ordered from G3 paintball or directly from Maddman for $10. The green spring is the one you need. If you do not already have a vertical adapter, order the T-fitting one from CountyPaintball. If you have the regular vertical adapter, I would still reccomend buying the T-fitting one. If you do not want to make a LP chamber, you can order one for $20 from CountyPaintball.

Modifying the rear bolt

The rear bolt must loose some weight. The attached images show a stock bolt with extra holes drilled. Modify the stock bolt so it looks like the final design. The reason the final design does't have the extra two holes drilled, and the front part lathed is because it would actually weigh less than the real LP bolt. The reason Tippmann drilled 8 holes and lathed down the front part of the bolt, was to accomodate for the weight of the rear cocking knob. Lostinthewoods of PBreview weighed the stock bolt and insert, then weighed the LP bolt and cocking knob, and the LP stuff only weighed a few grams less. The first image is a 2D drawing with dimensions, the second and third images are 3D models. With parts highlighted in red, being new or modified features. Like I said before, the heavily modified bolt will actually be lighter than the real LP bolt. It will still work with even less recoil, but it may hurt efficiency. I suggest modifying it to the slightly modified bolt first, and if you want to keep experimenting, go for the heavily modified bolt.
Drawing w/dimensions

Heavily Modified(Original design, too light)

Slighly modified

Modifed Rear Bolt for LP(Final design)

Valve work

The valve should first be taken out of the powertube (you can do this by sticking an allen wrench or screwdriver down the front of the power tube.) and dissassembled. After the valve is out of the power tube, push the brass piston down past the inlet hole, and stick a toothpick in the air inlet hole, keeping the brass piston from raising back up. Now you can remove the spring clip. Once the spring clip is removed, take the toothpick out, and the rest of the parts. Now if you want you can take the large oring off the valve, so it doesn't get damaged when grinding it down. If you have a mill, make the slots a half circle with a radius of 3/8" or an inch, or if you are using a square bit, make them a little less deep than 3/8 of an inch, but still use a 3/8 bit. Now for the people useing a dremel or die grinder, get a 3/8" bit or if you want to spend more time grinding, some sand paper cartrige rolls. Just grind as best as you can, half cirlce slots. Clean all the parts for the valve assemby, and re-assemble with the LP valve spring you purchased from Ballistic Sports. The valve is now complete.
Ported Valve for LP

LP & Normal Valve Spring

LP Chamber

You can either buy one from County Paintball, or make one yourself. If you making one yourself, the ideal dimensions would be 1.25" innder diameter, by 2.5" height for the chamber. If you can't make it to those dimensions, shoot for a volume of at least 3 cubic inches. I made mine from a piece of stainless steel tubing, and then welded caps on the end. Lastly I drilled and tapped a hole in the top. I would reccomend tapping it for an 1/8" pipe thread since that is the standard, but if you want, you could use different threads if you have the right fittings. NOTE: Final dimensions and construction differ from one expained.

Vertical Adapter

I reccomend buying the T-fitting one. I made the original VA work, but it was more work than it is worth. There is a good chance that when you tap the bottom of the fitting with the 1/16", the fitting could crack. And if it doesn't crack then, when you screw the in the 1/16" to 1/8" fitting into the VA, it could crack. Or if you know how to silver solder/silver braze, you could do that to seal everything up.(I silver brazed mine.) Here is a picture of my hacked up VA. Modified VA

Fine tuning and Tweaking

Ok, all the settings may very between guns, but this is a good baseline. Reg is set to 325 psi, stock velocity screw is all the way out(but still in the power tube, just none of the screw is blocking the air flow), and the RVA is 3/4 of the way in with a green Maddman spring, shooting around 260 fps. If the reg is turned up to 350 psi it can shoot 300 fps easily. I did not record actual shots per tank, but efficiency is noticeably better. That is good because that was my goal. There is also a little less recoil. Lastly it is a little quieter, eliminates most of the pop sound.

98 stuff, AND other stuff
Updated 10/11/03

Everything on this page may not be 100% correct. But these are my findings and I'm sure they are right, or very close too it. Also you will notice alot of links to PBN threads since members there have good findings as well. Feel free to e-mail me if anything is disputable. Thanks for reading.

Ever been to If you haven't shame on you. go to and engulf yourself in USEFULL information. Or if you want to go strait for the FAT (Frequently Asked Tinkerers) click here. All FAT information is proporty if Doc Nickel's site.

Graphite for lube.
Using graphite to lubricate the hammer/rear bolt. This is a very useful thing to do. Not only does it wear down the inside of your recievers less, it makes for a smoother more consistant cycle. First off, your internals need to be polished. Next you need to get high quality, extra fine graphite. You can find this at hardware stores and hobby shops. To apply the graphite, put a few drops on each side of the bolt, assembe your gun, then manually cock it and then pull the trigger. Do this for a few minutes. Now when you cock your gun back all the way, you will notice the o-ring on the hammer is black from all the graphite, don't worry, the graphite wont harm it. But now it when the gun is cocked back, put 1 drop of oil in the hammer o-ring, then three in the ASA. Now dry fire the gun about 30-50 times go get the graphite worked into the receivers and hammer, and o-rings sealing proporly. If you did this correctly you will now notice when you cock your gun, the motion feels much smoother, and should be easier to pull back. Less friction is a good thing.

Updated: ROF, Hoppers, feed necks, mechanical, RT and E-bolt.
Hoppers: obviously, the faster the hopper, the faster you will be able to shoot. Their are several limiting factors however.
Feed neck: Since it is at a 45 degree angle, this already slows down how fast you will be able to shoot. Laws of physics (trigonometry) determines this. It is now commonly known, that on vertical feed guns (non forcefed) the fastests ROF acheivable is 13-14 bps. After some math you will find that with a right feed about 10 bps is max. Now amount of blowback, angle your gun is being held at, and type of hopper can affect this.
Need for speed: The only way to shoot faster than roughly 10 bps on a Tippmann is to get a HALO B (or HALO A if you insist)or Warpfeed. On a mechanical/RT trigger 98, you can burst 5-8 balls at 18 bps. For some reason if you want to do a long string about 16 bps is the fastest you can shoot before the gun pinches or chops a ball.
E-Bolt: Super fast paint slinging machine... Sort of. While the trigger is very easy to pull, and has many modes of fire, you will only shoot about 10 bps with a GOOD hopper. Even with a HALO B you are limited to about 11-12 bps. Why? Because once the E-Bolt starts to cycle that fast, it makes incomplete cycles. It only returns enough for the ball to fall 1/3 of the way into the breech, then it fires again. Chop-suey.

LP vertical adapter is not sufficient
Now here is something I have found out about the vertical adapters Tippmann uses. If any of you have noticed there is only one small hole in the VA to let ALL (not much) air into the gun. This hole is fine for high pressure guns since a higher pressure will flow through the hole faster, and high pressure guns use a higher pressure smaller burst of air. Now when Tippman uses the same sized hole for a LP gun, the air is going to flow through it slower, not only that the gun needs MORE air. So the VA really starves the gun pretty bad from the factory (on LP setups). For example purposes I will use these numers, as they probably aren't correct. Lets say the reg is set to 350 psi. When you shoot it drains all the air from the reg and VA, and nearly all the air from the LP chamber. Now the system is at lets say 50 psi. Now the reg lets air into the VA fitting area and it builds up to 350 psi in just the VA ASA threading. Since the hole restricts air so much the rest of the system may only be at 200 psi. Now a short time later, the system equalizes to 300 psi. Now the reg slowly creeps back up to 350 psi. This makes for a really bad recharge characteristic, and starves the gun of air at rates of fire of only 5-6 bps. ALso on top of that the reg will regulate really inconsistantly since the pressure changes aren't instant, but thats a hole nother topic. REALLY bad design if you ask me. So on my VA's I drill the original hole bigger, and drill another hole 180* from the original one. This makes for an almost 250% increase in hole size, and lets enough air flow through for firing up to about 10 bps without drop off. After 10 bps it will drop off to about 10 fps for every extra bps fired.

Regulating a stock Tippy
Plain and simple, back out the velocity screw, and adjust the reg until you reach the desired velocity. It will probably end up somewhere around 650 PSI. For all the debates on how low it will cycle, mine was down to 425 PSI, however, the velocity was extremely low.

E-bolt Tuning
So you have no clue where to set your dwell? HERE is a good place to start. Setting it around this position will also turn the dwell down, saving some air. This PBN thread also has lots of usefull information about tuning the e-bolt, it will also save me alot of typing Smile

Getting the E-bolt to work, the rest of the way...Click1 Click2

koolaidman off PBN: "the best dwell setting on the bsi e-bolt kit is 9 like the book said, but depending on the field you have to run it at 8 to keep the velocity down" I'll take his word for it.

sorry links don't more later...

wow, you can really do alot at home to your 98 custom.

Pretty crazy.

I dont understand that front bolt contraption thing.

thanks Grunt i have been looking for some of that stuff

Magnetic Trigger

I used a file to take the metal off the trigger. This took a good 45 minutes but it was worth every minute of it. Then I used 3000lb epoxy to bond the magnets to the trigger and power tube. I left the front section of the trigger on incase I wanted to put a set screw there, for a trigger stop. I ordered the magnets from The description of them is 0.187" DIA X .060" LG DISC RARE EARTH NICKEL PL. If you have any questions or comments my E-Mail is on the front page.

Magnetic Trigger P1

Magnetic Trigger P2

Magnetic Trigger P3

Adjustable Trigger(sorry lost the pic's for this one)
Simple yet effective. I drilled and tapped the top of the trigger using 4-40 threads. I then used a button head allen screw and threaded it in from the bottom so the head is facing downwards.

Next I drilled a 1/8' hole through the bottom of my receiver halves, so an allen driver can be put through the hole to adjust the preload set screw.

Next I took the stock trigger guard and cut the bottom mounting point off, drilled a hole in that and threaded a set screw into it. I use this as a trigger stop, with the set screw also being externally adjustable with the help of a specially modified allen driver.

To remove ALOT of trigger stop, get a #30 drill bit (DIA .1285") and use the shank of that for the pin the trigger rests on. Makes trigger pull much shorter on the E-bolt and in genral smoother and well, less sloppy! (the stock pin is .125" DIA)

Taking Apart Your CVX Valve

What a pain in the rear! Not anymore!

If you don't know how to take apart the valve here is your chance to learn.

First off you will need the proper tools to take it apart. My personal favorites are a small and large allen wrench. A very small flathead screwdriver and a .9mm mechanical pencil.

First push the brass piston down past the air inlet with the big allen wrench. Then stick the small allen wrench in the air inlet hole to hold the piston down.

Now you will use either the small screwdriver, the .9mm mech. pencil or both to pry the tab up and out. Sometimes you can slip the tip of the pencil (where the lead comes out) over the end of the tab and pull it out. Then slip the screwdriver under the tab and start working the screwdriver in a circular motion. Other times the pencil won't work so just using the screwdriver to pry the tab out works.

Working the screwdriver in a circular motion until the clip pops out. Once the clip pops out, use the big allen wrench to push down on the piston, take out the small allen wrench and let the piston back up. Now take the small allen wrench and push on the valve pin. This will push all the valve internals out.

Valve innards in the order they are assembled.
(sotty lost this pic.)

Make sure you put the O-ring and cupseal seat in correctly.

Now the valve is almost re-assembled. All that is left is to put the snap ring back on. Push the brass piston back down and hold it with the small allen wrench. I find it easiest to get the snap ring back on by pushing it on like shown in the picture below. Once part of the snap ring is back in place, continue pushing the rest of it down in a circular pattern with the screwdriver until it's fully snapped into place.

Well there you have it. Don't worry if you scratch up the brass piston or the inside of the valve body a little bit. Just be careful not to tear any O-rings and you will be in good shape!

Trigger Stop Mod

Eliminate tigger overpull

You will need a stock single trigger guard you can cut up for this. You can use an x-acto knfe, snips, or even a dremel to make the first cut. Then you can either file it, or sand it with a dremel tool down to the second line.
(lost pic)

Now you will want to drill and tap it for a set-screw. I reccomend going to the hardware store, getting a 5/16" drill bit, 4-40 tap and a 4-40 set screw. Make note it can be done with other sizes. The one pictured below uses a 4-40 stainless steel set screw.
(lost pic)

Picture of one mounted on gun.

Picture of one using a regular screw.

Example of a set screw used with the Psycho Ballistics / Dead On Paintball double trigger guard.

Wow man you are one talented person. That was nice of you too share such great work.

Justice wrote:
Wow man you are one talented person. That was nice of you too share such great work.

i is from Natural Newbie(NN)...who started now it's gone...but i have almost everthing he posted on my more later...


Seriously though, I had no idea it went down.

where were you for the past year....that is how long it has been gone...

I haven't bothered with paintball for the last year mostly, so never noticed.

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