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Grunt_98c

polishing internals

There are two ways to polish the internals of a 98c. one way is to use steel wool...


it cost about $2. you can find it at any hardware store. but make sure you get the right kind....

...make sure you get #000. as shown in this pic. you don't wan't to messup your gun or anything. first step...

take apart your gun. remove all the inernals. then clean up all the gun oil that is on the left and right receivers..

...when you start polishing the receviers...

....the best place's to start are the, back and front bolt areas, in the area were the linkage arm moves Around, in the area were the sear moves around and any other place you feel like. just remember to polish the same areas on both recivers. also when you use steel wool to polish the 98c i may get alittle messy. so when your done wash off both recerviers with running water and dry throughly. make sure no left over steel wool is on both receivers. if there is this will cause major problems. when done washing and drying put gun back together and you are done.this will help your 98c in the long run...
the other way is to use a dremel tool. i don't have one yet so if someone has one please post how to on this thread, thank you. using steel wool is the cheapest way to polish the internals but not the easiest way. also if you own an a-5 you can polish your internals also the same way you can a 98c.
Smitty

Probably belongs in Uber Mod section, but I'll let it stay either until morning and people see it, or until someone else moves it there.
TriggerHappy1

Very good. Explained very well.

To add to this, I use some kind of alluminum polish after and while I polished mine. I also used a bench wire-brush, and paintstripper for the overspray.
Grunt_98c

forgot to add this you are gonna need alot of stamina or alot of time on your hands because you will get tired using steel wool and i hope this thread helps people.
Smitty

Yeah. I did mine that way, and I just didn't want to polish it too much, because I thought maybe the bolt would move too freely.
Grunt_98c

no it won't, don't worry. i polished my gun more today. the inside of my 98c is all nice and shinny....lol.
^Pirate^

Smitty wrote:
Yeah. I did mine that way, and I just didn't want to polish it too much, because I thought maybe the bolt would move too freely.

If the linkage arm can't move left or right, then it almost doesn't matter.

Also, Deffinately belongs in the Uber Mods and FAQ section.
sinisterNorth

Nice. Think you could take the picture of the reciever and photoshop it with a red line outlining where you should polish? I want to do this sometime but dont want to mess up.
^Pirate^

sinisterNorth wrote:
Nice. Think you could take the picture of the reciever and photoshop it with a red line outlining where you should polish? I want to do this sometime but dont want to mess up.


The Asterisk lookin things mean not too much here....
sinisterNorth

Thanks ^pirate^'s

I think I got it. The entire bolt area from rear to barrel threading gets polished, the small area above the bolt gets polished a little, and the area above the trigger gets polished a little.
Pro-Litey

if you havent already done it i wouldnt use steel wool(it splinters too much and takes way too long). use sand paper either 80 or 100 grit will work good,i used 80,it takes a lot less time than steel wool. after you get everything smooth use a 3M scotch pad to fine polish it and shine it. then when you done blow off the dust and put a little oil on a rag(like hopps9 or what ever kind of gun lube you have) and wipe down the entire frame and make sure you get into all the little holes and cracks and crevisses esp. the barrel threds so you dont mess up you barrel when you put it on.then just oil reasemble your gun and oil a little more.(the bust way i konw of to make sure you whole gun gets lube is put like 5-10 drops into the ASA put on your tank and dry fire 5 times with out your barrel on.) Salut
^Pirate^

I just sat there for an hour with some fine sand paper and a scouring pad for pots, and I took off all the paint and some metal(bolt doesn't ride.)
And the area of the trigger can't be done too heavily, because you'll make the seart and trigger stuff go way off.
Grunt_98c

sinisterNorth wrote:
Nice. Think you could take the picture of the reciever and photoshop it with a red line outlining where you should polish? I want to do this sometime but dont want to mess up.

i would have used photoshop but my computer is still running super slow. i would take me forever to do it.
Grunt_98c

Pro-Litey wrote:
if you havent already done it i wouldnt use steel wool(it splinters too much and takes way too long). use sand paper either 80 or 100 grit will work good,i used 80,it takes a lot less time than steel wool. after you get everything smooth use a 3M scotch pad to fine polish it and shine it. then when you done blow off the dust and put a little oil on a rag(like hopps9 or what ever kind of gun lube you have) and wipe down the entire frame and make sure you get into all the little holes and cracks and crevisses esp. the barrel threds so you dont mess up you barrel when you put it on.then just oil reasemble your gun and oil a little more.(the bust way i konw of to make sure you whole gun gets lube is put like 5-10 drops into the ASA put on your tank and dry fire 5 times with out your barrel on.) Salut

why not???? i got this way to do it from model98.net when it was up. it's not a bad way to do it. but if your way works people can also try it.
Pro-Litey

Grunt_98c wrote:
Pro-Litey wrote:
if you havent already done it i wouldnt use steel wool(it splinters too much and takes way too long). use sand paper either 80 or 100 grit will work good,i used 80,it takes a lot less time than steel wool. after you get everything smooth use a 3M scotch pad to fine polish it and shine it. then when you done blow off the dust and put a little oil on a rag(like hopps9 or what ever kind of gun lube you have) and wipe down the entire frame and make sure you get into all the little holes and cracks and crevisses esp. the barrel threds so you dont mess up you barrel when you put it on.then just oil reasemble your gun and oil a little more.(the bust way i konw of to make sure you whole gun gets lube is put like 5-10 drops into the ASA put on your tank and dry fire 5 times with out your barrel on.) Salut

why not???? i got this way to do it from model98.net when it was up. it's not a bad way to do it. but if your way works people can also try it.

well its more for the lazier people out there who dont want to sit there for hours doin it the way i said takes like 10 min tops inc.disasembling and reasembling and oiling the gun.and i dont like how the steel wool falls apart and splinters esp. if you get one of the splinters in your finger. Not cool but if you dont mind any of that do it your way. Salut
Grunt_98c

lol...that has happen to me. it sucks.
Pro-Litey

Grunt_98c wrote:
lol...that has happen to me. it sucks.

yea thats why i like my way better, but its all personal prefference.
tigman250

Pro-Litey wrote:
if you havent already done it i wouldnt use steel wool(it splinters too much and takes way too long). use sand paper either 80 or 100 grit will work good,i used 80,it takes a lot less time than steel wool. Salut




80 or 100 grit is plenty rough i used 220 grit to remove the overspray then i used aluminum polish and a dremmel with a cotton buffing wheel got a mirror finish in about a half an hour dissambley to assembly Very Happy
Smitty

Moved to other section, but pictures don't work now! THumb down
Nickodemus

I sucessfully used 3M 1000 grit Wetordry paper to put a mirror finish on the frame shell halves where the moving parts slide against the inside. Once I removed the overspray I could see all the little tool marks of the bad finishing job Tippmann did. The 1000 grit lets you polish without removing metal and taking it out of tolerance. After the sanding and cleaning I treated the surface with Militec-1.

Bad photos, needed better lighting -
Before:


After:
Smitty

Nickodemus wrote:
I sucessfully used 3M 1000 grit Wetordry paper to put a mirror finish on the frame shell halves where the moving parts slide against the inside. Once I removed the overspray I could see all the little tool marks of the bad finishing job Tippmann did. The 1000 grit lets you polish without removing metal and taking it out of tolerance. After the sanding and cleaning I treated the surface with Militec-1.
Nice. Good job. Cheers

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