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Uber upgrades and modifications FAQ (TPI)

<Sticky this, and don't lock it, PLEASE so others can post anything not mentioned, AFTER they read it ALL Twisted Evil>
Before note:
This was not meant to be fully read, it was meant for you to search (ctrl + F) and find what you are looking for and use the information accordingly.

Ok, since most of us come from a Tippmann background and still have one we like to tool around with, here's a list of ups, mods, and other things for them.
1- BARREL LENGTH- For the most part, the length of your barrel does not affect accuracy. A paintball needs about 7.5-8 inches of barrel to stabilize, and to be truthful, after that, you are using more of your air source (co2, n2, or HPA). So, the longer the barrel, the A- more air you use and B- the more you have to turn up your velocity. This should help to eliminate questions asking “How long should I order my barrel?” Although, once again, I will say there is nothing wrong with asking questions, after you search. I will list some decent barrels for decent prices. (Note-I know I am not naming all of the barrels.)

J+J Ceramic


All American

Tear Drop



Quit Riot

Nite Stik


Big Shot

Boom Stick

Freak Kit

Freak Junior

Evil Pipe

Flat line - A-5

Flat line - 98 Custom


GTA Sniper Barrel

Thunder Pig Barrels


A-Open package and rotate the bags. The paintballs are extremely close packed in the box. This may lead to a ball break. That is bad…

B-Keep them in a relatively warm place, with low humidity.

C-Keep rotating the bags

D-DO NOT FREEZE YOUR PAINT (doing so will ruin your barrel and is dangerous to others)

E-Follow all other instructions on your box of paint.

3- Types of Air Hoses- Steel braided lines, Macro lines, and Micro lines.

STEEL BRAIDED LINES- These are what you stock model 98, model 98 custom, A-5, Pro-Carbine and most other guns that aren’t upgraded come with. Not all guns come with steel braided. Some higher end guns come stock with macro line, described later. These hoses are made of steel, and look like a girls braided hair, hence the name. These are more durable, but come in sizes, and you cannot adjust the size. So if you buy a drop forward, regulator, or expansion chamber, you may need a new hose. These are pretty flexible, but cannot be bent too much, or at too much of an angle. These also only come in one color, silver.

MACRO LINE HOSES- These are what some higher end guns come with. These are small, thick, heavy duty plastic air hoses that can be flexed quite easily. You can buy a kit with 3 feet of hose (3 colors) and 2 fittings (one 90* elbow, one straight fitting, or two 90* fittings.) for 10 dollars at . I have found that they have the best deals for macro line. These types of line come in three colors (usually red, black, and blue) and are made by several companies. They can be cut to any length needed, and each color hose comes in one foot sections. Some people dislike them, saying that they are not strong. This is both true and false. Macro line is not as strong as Steel Braided hoses, but is more flexible and can be cut to any size. Macro line is still pretty durable though, so do not think it is “weak”.

MICRO LINE HOSES- These hoses are pretty rare to find these days. If you do find some, I suggest against buying it. They are just like Macro Line, but they are a lot smaller in diameter, thus restricting airflow. If you are still interested in this, you may want to look for some on . I have not found them anywhere else.


R/T-Response Trigger- This is illegal at some tournaments but not all. This uses excess air from your marker to blow the trigger back into the ready position. This is still semi-auto, but many people think it is fully auto. It isn’t.

Drop Forward- These are used to disperse the weight out better on your gun. It brings you ASA (Air Source Adapter-Where you screw in your air tank) forward and down. These are also used a lot in speedball so you can tuck in closer to the bunkers.

Regulator (for HPA and N2—some work with co2)-These can set down the air going into the gun to make your gun more gas efficient.

Expansion Chamber- This is only for co2. It gives the co2 more time to expand into a gas-helps keep liquid co2 out of the gun.

Electric Hopper- A electric hopper spins a paddle for whenever you shoot to prevent chopping balls and having clog ups in your standard hopper. Good investment if you have the R/T.

Double Trigger- Some people prefer these over a single trigger. Its pretty self explanatory. Two slots for your fingers instead of one.

New Grips- Some people find the stock grips to be irritating. Most aftermarket grips are softer and are more comfortable.

New Barrel- The stock barrel on gun is most likely not very accurate, and not very good all around. See the section on barrels above.

Stocks/Remote lines – Woods ball players like these over speed ball players. The stock lets you rest the gun on your shoulder, and the remote line is a coiled hose that attaches to your ASA and co2 tank, letting you wear your co2 tank in a pocket. Remotes can work like expansion chambers too.

Scope- Scopes aren’t very good in paintball. Paintballs aren’t very accurate anyway. Scopes also give you tunnel vision, which will probably result in you getting flanked

Red Dot Site- These are better then scopes because they won’t give you tunnel vision and is easier to use then a scope. They have a red dot inside the site and you jut line that up with the target and the aimer on the site.

RVA (Rear Velocity adjuster) - If you buy this, it will allow you to increase or decrease your velocity with out having to use allen wrenches. It allows you to adjust velocity with your fingers. (NOTE-THIS WILL NOT WORK WITH A REAR COCKING SYSTEM)

Rear Cocking System – This allows you to cock your gun from the end. Some people prefer these over side cocking markers. Usually, a metal plate and screws will be provided to cover the hole where the side cocking knob used to be. (NOTE- WILL NOT WORK WITH ROCKET COCK OR RVA)

Rocket Cock- This is used to cover up the side cocking system, and has a ring on a pin that attaches to the side cocking knob. So it covers the side cocking hole but you still cock from the side. This is for looks, but some say it quiets the gun quit a bit. I do not know, I don’t have one. It also helps keep debris and paint/paint shells out of your marker.

HPA (High Pressure Air) or N2 (Nitrogen) - These are interchangeable as far as paintball is concerned. You can fill most tanks with either or. HPA/n2 is more consistent then C02, so you will get better shots and you won’t get velocity spikes. You also won’t have to worry about having liquid C02 in the gun. These come in three common types- Fiber Wrapped, Aluminum, and Steel. Those are in order of the lightest to the heaviest. You will want to buy a tank cover for most Fiber wrapped tanks because they scratch easily. How many shots will you get? You multiply the CI (Cubic Inches) by these numbers…

10xCI= Number of shots for a 3000 PSI tank

15xCI= Number of shots for a 4500 PSI tank

20xCI= Number of shots for a 5000 PSI tank


Accuracy depends on several things, and length of the barrel doesn’t effect accuracy. Here are some things that effect accuracy

· Good, fresh, non deformed paint

· Paintballs without paint spill on them

· Clean paintballs

· Velocity not too high-280 FPS is good

· Clean barrel

· No spurs in barrel

· Good Paint To Barrel Bore match

Paintball sizes-

Barrel Sizes-

This post is about choosing the right kind/brand of paintball for using in a Flatline Barrel System.

The Flatline:

The Flatline Barrel system is a very popular barrel upgrade on 98's and A-5's. But, scince this barrel has a curve or arch in it, it will performe better with Medium-Small bore paint.

Which Paint:

For a Flatline, you will need to use a good quality ball. And, they should be a Medium-Small bore paint. Some good brads of paint are the following:

Marbilizers: They used to be the best. But, they must have cleaned the machines, misscalculated the ingrediants, or changed the temperature in the building. Because now new Marbilizers are not performing very good. They are comming with flat spots and the paint is not as think and heavy as it used to be. So if you are buying marbs, be carefull.

Evil: Right now I beleive Evil's are the best brand of paint for the Flatline. They work AWSOME in the Flatline. Plus, they have a VERY think paint and bright shell.

Draxxus(Diablo) Blaze: Some people are having good luck wioth Blaze paintball. I use them and they work GREAT. They have a very thivk and tuff shell and the paint is pretty decent. It's not as think as Evil, but it still shows up good. Blaze, as well as other Draxxus paint, is a very small bore paint.

32* Team Colors: I myself have not used it with the Flatlien Barrel System. I have used it on "Regular" Barrels, and they were NOT very good at all. But, I hear when they are used in the Flatline , they rock! I will try thses next time I wip ou the Ol' A-5, then I will give you a report.

Those are some of the more popular brands of paint for both the A-5 and 98 Flatline Barrel System.

If anyone has anything to add, feel free to do so!


Compressed Air/Nitrogen
These terms are all used interchangeably; the only real difference in them is the fact that Compressed air is simply what we are breathing right now (78.1% Nitrogen,19.8% Oxygen, and 2.1% Other Gasses), and Nitrogen is 100% Nitrogen gas.

HPA and Nitrogen are stored in a tank, under pressure, as a gas. HPA and Nitrogen are both very stable. The pressure of HPA and Nitrogen in a tank, will change a little bit with temperature. It will not change pressure as radically as a gas that is liquefied, like CO2.

CO2 is stored in a tank, under pressure, as both a liquid and a gas, simultaneously. about 34% of the VOLUME of a full CO2 tank will be filled with liquid. The remaining 66% of the interior volume, will be filled with saturated gas.

The pressure of CO2 will change drastically with a change in the temperature of the CO2. Further, if straight liquid CO2 is ingested into the gun, potentially dangerous velocity spikes can occur. The pressure of CO2 at 70 degrees (F) will be about 853 PSI.

Why would I consider buying Nitrogen?
Most all serious paintballers will make the switch in there career. Nitrogen is a much more pure gas, as stated above, it is much of what we breathe unlike Co2, which is Carbon Dioxide. Many electronic and mechanical guns require the use of Nitrogen. You will not have any more nasty velocity spikes that can injure other players, which can happen with unregulated Co2.

What are all these measurements for?
The first measurement you will see is the “ci”, or cubic inches of the tank, which is the actual size/internal volume in cubic inches of the tank. This measurement can be anywhere from 47ci to 114ci. The second measurement is pressure. Pressure is expressed as “PSI”, which stands for Pounds per Square Inch. Tanks can be rated to be filled up to 3000psi, 4500psi, or 5000psi.

How many shots can I expect?
The most common way of measuring shots per tank is taking the C.I., or Cubic Inch specification, and multiplying it by 10 for 3000psi rated tanks, 15 for 4500psi rated tanks, and 17 for 5000psi rated tanks. For example; you could expect 680 shots from a 68ci 3000psi tanks. 68ci x 10 = 680 shots.

Steel or Fiber Wrapped?
A Nitrogen tank can be made from one of two materials. A steel tank will be much more durable, and could potentially last longer, while also being much heavier than a fiber wrapped tank. Fiber wrapped tanks are not quite as durable, unless a tank cover is used, which is most definitely recommended with this material. A fiber wrapped tank is much lighter than a steel tank.

Hydro Testing?
A Nitrogen tank must have a hydro re test every 3 years or every 5 years. This period is from the date on the tank. Depending on which Nitrogen tank that you choose, you will need to know if your tank needs to be tested every 3 years, or every 5 years.

Your proshop will not fill a tank if it is past due for a hydro test. If you are buying a used tank, make sure you find out when the tank was last hydrostatically tested, and whether it needs to be tested every 3 or 5 years.

Fiber wrapped tanks have a MAXIMUM life span of 15 years from the date of the original Hydro Test. Any tank, of any type, that fails a Hydro Test, will be destroyed by the company that performs the Hydro Test.

Many fiber tanks will need to be Hydro'd every 3 years. Some of the newer fiber tanks can go 5 years between Hydros.

Steel tanks have NO MAXIMUM life span. So long as a steel tank passes Hydro, it can still be used. Steel tanks must be Hydro'd every 5 years.

A standard hydro testing is $35 from Hydro Testers

How much will I pay for a Nitrogen tank?
The prices on Nitrogen tanks are a little more expensive than what you will pay for a Co2 tank. Unless you are buying a used Nitrogen tank, you will be paying anywhere from $80-$600. The $400-$600 range is probably out of most recreational players league, this being Angel A.I.R. and the Max-Flo systems. To get your Nitrogen tank filled, it is usually $1 every 1000psi. For example; it would cost $3 to get a 68ci 3000psi tank filled. The cubic inch of the tank is not taken into consideration with the cost of filling a tank. So an 114ci 3000psi tank would only cost $3 to fill also, in most cases.

Does a tank come with a regulator?
Yes, almost all tanks will come with a regulator. This is the part that actually screws into your Air Source Adapter, and contains the gauge and fill nipple. These regulators can be preset to a high pressure output of 800-900psi, a low pressure output of 350-450psi, or they can even be an adjustable output regulator.

What are some good brands of Nitrogen systems?
Some of the good brands which are in the mid price ranges are Crossfire, Centerflag, and WorrGas. Unless you are daring, you will want to stay away from new companies, they usually have some bugs to work out. Make sure the brand of tank you are getting comes with a good quality regulator on top. I have heard many negative remarks about the ACI and PMI tank regulators.

Low Pressure

What is low pressure?
A low operating pressure is considered anywhere from 50-400psi. On any gun, running at a lower pressure could mean more shots per tank, less recoil, and better consistency over the chrono.

Why go low pressure?
Low pressure can have numerous benefits such as: more shots per tank, less ball chopping, less recoil, better consistency, and of course the bragging rights of knowing your gun has a low operating pressure and can achieve all of these things.

Can my 98 Custom be a low pressure marker?
Yes it can. With the purchase of Tippmann’s Comp-Air kit, a quality regulator, and a Nitrogen tank, your 98 Custom can run at 350 psi or lower.

What about using the RT with the Low Pressure kit?
The RT and Low Pressure kit will work very nicely together. Just use the RT kit's power tube, and the LP kit's valve. If you do have any problems with the RT not resetting, you may need a larger external RT hose. However, owners of newer 98 Customs should have no problems.

What does the Tippmann Comp Air kit accomplish?
The Tippmann Comp Air kit gives you a lighter rear drive spring, lighter rear bolt, high flow valve, low pressure chamber, and a vertical adapter with t-fitting. With all of these things installed on your 98 Custom along with a regulator, your 98 Custom is capable of operating at 350psi or lower.

Can my Tippmann A-5 be a low pressure marker?
Tippmann claims that it will have a Comp-Air kit out for the A-5 soon. Until then, the lowest pressure that an A-5 can run at, is about 600-700 PSI, without starving the cyclone feed.


What does a Regulator do?
A regulator regulates the air flow to your marker. A regulator will take the high pressure gas that is in the tank, and will step it down to a lower pressure, so that it can be safely used in a marker.

Most regulators are adjustable, meaning you can control the operating pressure, in psi, of your marker. Most regulators are meant to be used with Nitrogen. Some regulators can be used with Co2. One regulator that works well with CO2 is the Palmer Stabilizer. The Stabilizer works equally well with Nitrogen and Co2.

What are all the holes for?
A regulator can have up to three different holes. The first hole or port, usually located on one side of the regulator, can be for the airline coming into the regulator. The second hole or port, usually located on the reverse side from the first hole or port, can be used as an outgoing airline (in a female regulator setup) or a port for a gauge. And the third hole or port, usually located on the bottom of the regulator, can be that of an allen wrench adjustment to tweak the operating pressure of the regulator.

Do I need a gauge?
If you want to know approximately what output pressure your regulator is set at, all the time, then having a gauge on your reg is for you. If you really don’t care what pressure you’re at, just as long as it works, then you really don’t need a gauge. Micro gauges, which you will most commonly find on regulators, aren’t as accurate as bigger gauges. Remember that any gauge is most accurate at its mid point. If you are planning on running at 300psi, buy a 600psi gauge.

Some specs on some commonly known quality regulators.

MacDev 03 Gladiator - The Gladiator is a very consistent, very high flow regulator. It is adjustable from 0-700psi and can be used with Nitrogen or Co2. Although this is a very nice regulator, it is also very high maintenance. Any piece of debris that gets into the reg could cause velocity spikes or drop off. You must keep this regulator very clean. They cost about $80 and can be found at MacDev

AKALMP Sidewinder - The Sidewinder already has a great companies name behind of it. Who else to buy a regulator from then AKALMP, the low pressure experts? The Sidewinder is very unique, it has a swiveling end cap that allows the regulator to be setup in many different configurations. It also comes in 3 different sizes to meet your needs. This regulator is designed for low pressure operation. They cost about $95 and can be found at AKALMP

Bob Long Torpedo – The Bob Long Torpedo is a very known regulator. It is low maintenance, very consistent, and easy on the wallet. If Bob Long puts his name behind it, then you can be sure its worth the money you put out. This is the cheapest regulator mentioned here for about $55, and it can be found at

Palmer Stabilizer – The Stabilizer is a great regulator for Co2 or Nitrogen, and here’s why (copied from Palmers FAQ page): “The major benefit of the Stabilizer over the UniReg is that the Stabilizer will maintain consistency just about twice as well as the UniReg can. This is due to the design and dimensioning of the unit. Through any regulator there is a certain amount of inverse pressure variation in the output pressure that results from the variation in supply pressure. (as the supply pressure to the regulator goes up or down, the output pressure will go up or down, exactly opposite, and in a ratio that is proportional to the valve and diaphragm (or plunger) dimensions. (i.e. as the supply pressure goes down, the regulated pressure will go up slightly and vice-versa) In the case of a UniReg, that ratio of change is approx. 35:1; meaning that for every 35 psi of supply pressure change, the output pressure will vary approx. 1 psi. The Stabilizer will only vary about 1/2 as much. In other words, the Stabilizer is rated as a 70:1 regulator, in that it takes a 70 psi change in supply pressure to yield a 1 psi change in output pressure.” The Stabilizer is also adjustable from 0-900psi. This regulator will cost anywhere from $65-$95, depending on which setup of the Stabilizer you choose, and it can be found at Palmer-Pursuit

Other quality regs are the Air America brand regulators, such as the Vigilante. Although I don’t have any personal experience with this brand, a lot of people have told me many positive things about them.

Big list of 98 upgrades & accessories.
32 Degrees rear cocking bolt w/ beavertail for m98/98c.

Air Tipps butt stock with rear velocity adjuster(RVA) for m98/98c. url=

Air Tipps RVA for m98/98c.

Air Tipps stainless steel screw set for m98/98c.

Air Tipps T.O.S.K. for m98/98c.

Allen Paintball Products rubber fore grip for m98/98c.

Ballistic Sports AR100 clip for m98/98c.

Ballistic Sports AR100 basic sight kit for m98/98c. asic-sight-kit.htm

Ballistic Sports AR100 complete sight kit for m98/98c. omplete-sight-kit.htm

Ballistic Sports AR100 componets for m98/98c . ndividual-components.htm

Ballistic Sports aluminum blade trigger for 98c.

Ballistic Sports electro-pneumatic kit for m98/98c. This product is not currently available.

Ballistic Sports Wide double trigger for 98c. _alum_double_trigger.htm

Ballistic Sports Custom Suppressor (not real suppressor) for m98/98c. _m98_suppressor.htm

Ballistic Sports narrow double trigger. double_trigger.htm

Ballistic Sports M-16 hard stock for m98/98c. -hard-stock.htm

Ballistic Sports RVA

Ballistic Sports Spee-T-Cocker

Blackpoint Engineering combat folding stock for m98/98c.

Blackpoint Engineering fixed length folding stock for m98/98c.

Blackpoint Engineering VooDoo folding stock for m98/98c.

CMI International expansion chamber kit for m98/98c.

Dead On Paintball double trigger w/ guard for 98c.

Dead On Paintball front grip for m98/98c.

Dead On Paintball Pro-Seal front bolt & precision power tube for 98c.

Dead On Paintball Pro-Seal front bolt & precision power tube for m98.

Dead On Paintball rocket cock, aluminum, m98/98c.

Dead On Paintball Rocket Cock

Dead On Paintball RVA for m98/98c.

Full Boar RC (rear cocking)/RVA for m98/98c.

Full Boar Shadow (flush cocking) for m98/98c.

Full Boar side cover kit (side cover only) for m98/98c. Sorry, no link yet.

Full Boar site rail for m98/98c

Hole In The Wall Paintball 98c body, chrome plated, nickel plated, black nickel plated.

Hole In The Wall Paintball "Naked Lady" double trigger for m98/98c.

JMJ Concepts drop forward/trigger guard for 98c.

Lapco barrel adapter, cocker to m98 for m98/98c .

Lapco adapter, old to new m98 for m98/98c. 3014

Lapco barrel adapter, Pro-lite to m98.

Lapco barrel adapter, Spyder to m98 for m98c/98c.

Lapco stainless steel cocking knob for m98/98c.

Lapco direct feed, black or nickel plated, for m98/98c.

Lapco double trigger guard,black or nickel plated, for m98/98c.

Lapco dovetail sight rail, black or nickel plated, for 98c.

Lapco dovetail sight rail, black or nickel plated, for m98.

Lapco foregrip, black or nickel plated for m98/98c.

Lapco rear velocity adjuster for m98/98c.

Maddmann Spring kit for m98/98c.

ProMark Products BSI stick trigger and guard for 98c.

Pro team Products Commando F/X Car Stock for m98/98c.

Pro Team Products Commando F/X Fore End for m98/98c.

Pro Team Products commando F/X sight for m98/98c.

Pro Team Products Hyper Star bolt for m98/98c.

Pro Team Products Powerfeed for m98/98c.

Pro Team Products Pro-Feed for m98/98c.

Pro Team Products RVA for m98/98c.

Pro Team Products Sniper F/X Stock for m98/98c.

Psycho Ballistics double trigger for 98c.

Psycho Ballistics double trigger for m98.

Psycho Ballistics Rocket Cock for m98/98c.

Psycho Ballistics RVA for m98/98c.

Psycho Ballistics thumb screws for m98/98c 1112

Redz neoprene marker cover for m98/98c. een=PROD&Store_Code=RCG&Product_Code=GB-200&Cate gory_Code=PG

Tippmann Flatline barrel system for m98/98c.

Tippmann E-bolt Kit for 98c.

Tippmann Electronic sear kit for 98c.

Tippmann expansion chamber kit for m98/98c.

Tippmann double trigger kit for 98c.

Tippmann Hypur side cocking kit for m98/98c.

Tippmann low pressure kit for 98c.

Tippmann metal flatline shroud for m98/98c. Sorry, no link yet.

Tippmann Model 98 parts kit for m98/98c. 1040

Tippmann padded gun case for m98/98c and anything else that will fit.

Tippmann rear velocity adjuster for m98/98c.

Tippmann sight rail adapter for m98/98c.

Tippmann Techline safety button, color anodized, for m98/98c.

Tippmann vertical adapter for m98/98c.

Toxic Performance double trigger kit, black, silver, for 98c.

Let me know if you have anything to add to this post. If you know of an upgrade or accessory that's not here, please do let me know, and I'll add it. Thanks for activating the rest of the links KRL.

Links last added Nov. 22, 2003.

Big List Of A-5 Upgrades & Accessories

The Silencer made most of this on Tippmann Centre. Xenosabre also helped out with some of this on Tippmann Centre. I activated the links and added the colored company names on this forum.

I'm still working on this and adding products, so if you have any suggestions or a product to add, let me know.

We will not yet include barrels, drop forwards, and some other items.

Allen Paintball Products

Allen Paintball Products A-5 sight feeder.


Air Tipps Combat Sling

Air Tipps Detachable Combat Sling

Air Tipps Stainless Steal Screw Set

Ballistic Sports

Ballistic Sports A-5 autococker breech: cocker-breech.htm

Ballistic Sports A-5 car stock: tock.htm

Ballistic Sports A-5 fake supressor:

Ballistic Sports A-5 M-16 hard stock. hardstock.htm

Ballistic Sports A-5 rear velocity adjuster: -velocity-adjuster.htm

Ballistic Sports A-5 Spyder breech: er-breech.htm

Ballistic Sports A-5 velocity screw upgrade: city-screw-upgrade.htm

Blackpoint Engineering

Blackpoint Engineering A-5 laser sight.

Blackpoint Engineering A-5 rear peep sight:

Blackpoint Engineering A-5 RVA combat stock

Blackpoint Engineering A-5 RVA MP folding stock

Blackpoint Engineering A-5 RVA VooDoo stock

Blackpoint Engineering JCS A-5 RVA:


COPS911 A-5 Sling

COPS911 A-5 'flat-line' barrel cover:

COPS911 A-5 flatline barrel cover:

Dark Horizon

Dark Horizon A-5 titanium hammer:

Dead On Painbtall

Dead on Paintball Double Trigger Kit

Dead on Paintball Front Grip

Dead on Paintball Grip Adapter Block

Dead on Paintball Front Grip ASA

Dead on Paintball Pro-Seal

Dead on paintball Rear Velocity Adjuster (RVA)

Engler custom paintball guns

Engler AK-A5:

Engler AK-A5 folded:

Engler Thompson A-5:


Evil Paintball Barrel Adaptor Spyder to A-5

Extreme Sports

Extreme Sports M-4 Front Handgaurd kit

Extreme Sports Front Handgaurd Kit w/ Foregrip

Extreme Sports G3 Handguard Kit

Extreme Sports MP5 Style Handgaurd

Extreme Sports MP5 Style Sliding Stock Kit l

Extreme Sports G3 Magazine Kit

Extreme Sports M4 Magazine Kit.

Extreme Sports MP5 Style Magazine Kit

Extreme Sports weaver sight Rail[/glow]

Extreme Sports M4 Style Carry hangle

Extreme Sports Clamp on Bipod

Full Boar

Full Boar Products barrel Adapter 'Cocker to A-5

Full Boar Products Barrel Adapter M98 to A-5

J&J Performance

J&J Performance A-5 45-grip frame.


Lapco Fake Suppressor

Lapco Foregrip Mount

Lapco Universal Mount


OPSGEAR A-5 AK-47 folding stock:

OPSGEAR A-5 AK-47 kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 collapsible military grade commando stock:

OPSGEAR A-5 G3 hand guard:

OPSGEAR A-5 G3 style magazine kit:


OPSGEAR A-5 integrated flat top rail system:

OPSGEAR A-5 MP5-K style fixed length folding stock:

OPSGEAR A-5 MP5 flatline kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 MP5 kit:


OPSGEAR A-5 MP5 steel mag kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 M4 deluxe kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 M4 kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 M4 20 round mag kit:

OPSGEAR A-5 SD style barrel shroud:

OPSGEAR A-5 sniper solid stock:

Pro Team Products

Pro-Team A-5 Commando F/X Stock

Pro-Team A-5 flatline shroud: 2933

Pro-Team ASR-1 Sight Rail

Pro-Team F/X Fore End

Pro-Team Low Profile Loader Cap

Pro-Team Sniper F/X Stock


Tippmann A-5 Double Trigger Kit

Tippmann A-5 low pressure kit:

Tippmann A-5 parts kit: 2632

Tippmann A-5 Response Trigger:

Tippmann E-Grip:

Tippmann Flatline barrel system:
What upgrade for what Pos you play in speedball and woodsball. Speedball first. Remember $$$ you can spend differs.
Front man: You want small stuff. You usually don't want a huge Eggy 2 hopper. Try getting something small like a Halo TSA. Also, get a confortable drop forward. They bring your tank down and up for better counterweight and smaller gun. Just keep it small since you'll be hunkered down alot. Keep a small barrel 7" - 9".

Mid Man: Doesn't really matter what hopper. Just make sure what you got is lite. You really need to move when you're mid. Also, remember pods... not alot just enough. 2 or 3. 12" barrel is preferable.

Back man: Get a direct feed hopper so you're sure you always have a ball chambered no matter what. Also, carry alot of pods. Have a pretty good sized barrel like 14". Have plenty of air.

Tape Man: Same as mid.


You want a flatline. You don't want to carry ALOT of paint, it just depends on how much you shoot. You want to be able to move around and be small when need be.

Here is how you can do some mods to your warp feed. The following shows how you can do a 12 volt, led light, and on/off switch mod.

It is very simple and easy to do if you know what you are doing and have all the materials needed.

Materials needed:

Radio Shack has EVERYTHING you will need! It will cost around 7-8 buck for all of this.

1. 2 9 volt battery connectors.

2. Wires.

3. 1 12 volt LED light. Any color you want.

4. 1 power switch. Toggle. Needs to be able to handle 19 volts.

5. Solder gun.

6. Solder.

7. Electrical tape or heat shrink wrapping.

8. A clean work place and about 2 hours.

9. A GOOD BRIGHT light.

And most important!

10. 1 19-to-12 volt regulator. It needs to take 19 volts and step it down to 12 volts.
Make sure to cut the wires as SHORT as possible. There is not a whole lot of room in there.

It will only take a few hours to do this. You don't HAVE to put in a LED light or an on/off switch. But, it just makes it nicer.

After this mod you will notice that your warp will spin A LOT faster and it will be A LOT more sensitive!!

You don't have to mount them side by side. You can stack them or do whatever you want. But, this way makes more room.


Here is a link that shows you how to connect a Warp Feed to your 98's E-Bolt, utilizing the Warp's IntelliFeed Input!

So you wanna paint your marker....

1.Steel Wool (optional)
2. Primer
3. Spray Paint
4. Clear Coat
5. Dermal (optional)
6. Tape (optional)

1. Field Strip your marker, take everything out so you
just have your receiver halves.

2. Use either a dermal or steel wool to strip off all the
paint off your marker (yes the stock tippmann black
or silver paint) be sure to get UNDER the marker and
the BACK of the marker (these are spots I almost

3. Wipe down your marker with a Wet Cloth to make
sure you get all the debris off of it, and to see if you
missed any spot where some paint might still be.

4. Tape off your internals so no paint will get on the
inside, cover all the holes and everything (this step is

5. Spray about 3-4 LIGHT coats of primer. Let dry. Go
back and see if you missed a spot and to be sure
both receivers are completely covered with the

6. Spray the spray paint on the marker, about 3-4
coats and let dry. Just like doing the primer but
colored. Make sure you got every where on the
marker. Make sure the coats are Light and smooth
on both receiver halves… let dry

7. Now, Spray both receivers halves with some clear
coat, make sure you cover the entire marker. Make
the coats light and quick. This should make your
marker look a little “shiny” and “smooth”… let dry

8. If your internals were taped off then they should
look fine on the inside. If they don’t or you didn’t tape
them off then get out your steel wool (EXTRA fine
steel wool) or dermal and polish up your internals or
just polish it up so the paint, primer or clear coat is

9. Put your newly painted marker together

10. Show off

The Tippmann E-Grip FAQ

Greetings. This FAQ should help to answer your questions about the GTA E-Grip Trigger Frame. If you ahve any other questions, feel free to ask. This FAQ will be updated with any new or updated information

What is the E-Grip?

The GTA E-Grip is a new Grip Electronic Frame that trips the sear electonically with each pull of the trigger using a solenoid. You install the new grip frame in the place of the stock grip frame. The E-grip comes complete with trigger assembly, trigger frame and the electonic components.

Does it increase Rate of fire?

Yes, it absolutely does! Since the trigger activates the sear electornically, the marker can fire much quicker than the stock trigger, but slightly slower than the RT. Most people report results of 15bps.

Can I adjust the Rate of fire,?

Yes. There are Two holes in the E-grip Frame that allow you to change both the rate of fire and the mode of fire with a small screwdriver.

What modes of fire are available?

The E-Grip has five firing modes.

1. Semi Automatic - One shot for each pull of the Trigger
2. Turbo - Semi-Auto until the trigger is pulled faster than 4bps then it switches to auto-responce, doubling your rate of fire.
3. Auto Response - One shot on the pull and one on the release of the trigger. Basically two round burst.
4. Three Round Burst - Three shot each time you pull the trigger
5. Full Automatic - Hold the Trigger, launch 15bps in a constant string.

It's electronic right? Runs on Batteries, eh? Which ones?

The E-Grip uses standard 9 volt batterys and gets roughly 3000 rounds per battery from reports we've gathered.

Is the E-Grip easy to install and uninstall?

Yes. You just pull the two lower reciever pins, and the tombstone pin, remove the stock grip frame, remove the bottomline ASA from the stock receiver and install it on the E-Grip, and install the E-grip on the marker just as you uninstalled the Stock Grip. It takes less than two minutes.

Does the E-Grip use MORE gas?

In theory you should get the same number of shots per tank that you get from a stock A-5 or a m98c.

But that's not necessarily the case.

With the increased Rate of Fire Co2 will act differently than it would for the stock A-5 or M98C. As you shoot faster, the tank becomes colder and that leads to the Co2 taking more time to evaporate from liquid to gas. This means that more liquid will be drawn from the tank as usual. This in turn means not only will you use more of the co2, but it can also chill the gas lines and the valve, creating even more of a problem. This can also cause the output pressure of the tank to start dropping rapidly, meaning that the cyclone and RT will start to "slow down." A good Expansion Chamber, Regulator and remote system will help with this, but Nitro is the best solution.

Sounds Great. Is the E-Grip Tourney Legal?

Absolutely. That's why it was created. It takes the A-5 into High-End territory and can definately compete with the Big boys out there. Just as Tippmann Effect, Tippmann's Factory Tourney Team. Though it can only be used in Semi-Auto mode.

Are there any problems with the E-Grip?

A few. The Battery tends to be difficult to install/uninstall even though it was designed to be easy. The Wires tend to get in the way and hold the battery in the grip.

The Trigger switch is very sensitive and unless you make sure to turn the E-grip to a "Dead" setting, the sear tripping pin can shoot out of the Grip.

Also, the cyclone can get rather rough on paint when cycling at 15bps for loing periods of time. There are updates available for the cyclone that fixes that problem and they are free. Just call Tippmann for details.

Some fields still ban everything except Semi-Automatic, sue the other modes after talking to your field operators.

Okay, I want one. Where can I get one and how much is it

Tippmann sells the E-Grip for about $150 + shipping, but it can be picked up as low as $119 on the internet.

Can I see your E-Grip in Action?

Why yes, you can. Follow this link to see it in action:

The Tippmann Response Trigger FAQ

Greetings. This FAQ should help to answer your questions about the GTA RT Trigger Kit. If you ahve any other questions, feel free to ask. This FAQ will be updated with any new or updated information

What is the RT Trigger Kit?

The GTA Response Trigger Kit is a fully mechanical, Pnuematic Trigger Assist system. It uses wasted blow back gas to power a piston installed behind the trigger which returns the trigger to the ready position, ready to fire the next shot much quicker than the normal spring return and with much greater force.

Does it increase Rate of fire?

Yes, it absolutely does! Since the trigger resets much quicker and with much greater force, you can pull it quicker. Most people report results of between 14 and 17bps.

Can I adjust the Rate of fire, like with electronic Markers?

In a manner yes. You can adjust the flow of gas to the RT Piston, increasing or decreasing the pressure in the piston. The greater the pressure, the greater the force required to pull the trigger, and thus a slower the rate of fire. The lesser the pressure, the lesser the force required to pull the trigger, and thus a higher rate of fire.

Will the RT make my A-5 Fully Automatic?

In a way yes, and in a way no. Fully automatic markers work by cycling the bolt automatically while you are holding the trigger down. The RT can MIMIC this easily, but the trigger still moves with each shot, so you TECHNICALLY are pulling the trigger with each ball fired. This is called "sweet spotting."

How do you find the "Sweet Spot?"

It's different with the individual settings of each marker and each player. Usually the sweet spot can be found by pulling the trigger about half way back instead of all the way back and by applying constant pressure to the trigger. If set up correctly, the Trigger will bounce against your finger, and fire off a string of shots at high speed.

Is the RT easy to install and uninstall?

Yes, much easier to install than the 98 Custom Version of the RT, and it requires less modification. The instructions are a bit complicated, but anyone with a decent working knowledge of the A-5 will be able to install it in about 15 minutes, and even less to disable it. To Disable the RT, you simply need to pull the hose that leads to the RT piston, and replace the Banjo "T" fitting with the stock banjo fitting.

Does the RT use MORE gas?

Yes and no. The RT works on wasted blow back gasses. So in theory you should get the same number of shots per tank that you get from a stock A-5 or a m98c.

But that's not necessarily the case.

With the increased Rate of Fire Co2 will act differently than it would for the stock A-5 or M98C. As you shoot faster, the tank becomes colder and that leads to the Co2 taking more time to evaporate from liquid to gas. This means that more liquid will be drawn from the tank as usual. This in turn means not only will you use more of the co2, but it can also chill the gas lines and the valve, creating even more of a problem. This can also cause the output pressure of the tank to start dropping rapidly, meaning that the cyclone and RT will start to "slow down." A good Expansion Chamber, Regulator and remote system will help with this, but Nitro is the best solution.

Sounds Great. Is the RT Tourney Legal?

Again, yes and no. Even though it is still a semi-automatic marker, and you're still pulling the trigger for each paintball fired, the fact that you can mimic full auto easily has caused MOST big leagues to ban the RT. Some local tourneys will allow it though, so always check with the Ultimate Judge of the tourney before signing up with and RT.

Are there any problems with the RT?

A few. Some of the earlier RT kits had loose o-rings resulting in leaks. And some of the RTs shipped with bad pistons. These problems were corrected by Tippmann and if you have one of these kits you can contact Tippmann to get yours replaced.

Newer RT kits also come with new trigger plates that can stand up to the pressure of the RT kit a little better.

That and some field still ban fully automatic paintball markers, and the RT because of the trigger bounce.

Okay, I want one. Where can I get one and how much is it

Tippmann is shipping A-5s with RT installed in then and they are selling around the internet for Between $269 and $290. You can also buy the kit and install it yourself for about $75 to $99.

Paintball Grenades

Paintball grenades are used most often in scenario games, and are also used often in recreational woods ball games. Although, not all fields allow the use of paint grenades, so before you go to the field with a box of grenades to play, check with the field owner to see if you can use them. They can be extremely useful when there is a large bunker with several people in it, that your paintballs cannot penetrate. Although, many people use grenades in situations like this, but do not do something correct, causing your 5 dollar grenade not to explode. Several things can be blamed for this.

1. You did not shake well before using. That is the number one problem. Not shaking the grenade usually results in it not exploding, but sometimes it may explode without shaking if you throw it very high.

2. Did not throw correctly. Many people throw their paintball grenades similar to a baseball just with a little arch. You need to lob it with a lot of arch.

3. You forgot t take a part off the grenade. I’ve seen people forget to take the pin out. Some people take the mesh off of the tube. Those people usually get better results.

Types Of Grenades

* Tippmann Squad busters. Too bad they aren’t as reliable as other Tippmann products.

* Bouncing Betty’s. Usually work without a hitch.

* Meteor Shower Grenades. What I think are the best on the market. Sometimes they are too sensitive and can go off in your pocket while crawling. With these, you can set them up as a trip mine, or you can throw like a normal grenade.

* Banana Grenades. I have never used any of these, but on my local field, I have seen them used and they are quite reliable.

Complete Guide to Electronic

Why get an electronic hopper at all?
In my opinion an electronic hopper is essential to
any player, weather he's shooting five balls per
second or twenty five balls per second. There's
always that possibility that you won't have a
ball in the breach, or worse, have a ball half way in
the breach. Chopping a ball can ruin anybody's
game and having an agitated hopper helps to
eliminate this common problem.

What exactly does an electronic hopper do
There are two different types of agitated hoppers.
Hoppers like the EvLution II and the Halo B actually
feed the paint into the breach, where as hoppers
such as the Revolution and the Ricochet (ak and 2k)
simply mix the balls up and move them around so
that they're more likely to drop into the feed neck.
The hoppers that mix the balls up, naturally, can't
feed as fast as the hoppers that actually push the
paint into the feed neck. I'll get into the mechanical
workings later on in the post (it's in bold if you want
to get there fast and skip over all this).

Which hopper should i get?
Note that these are only my opinions. Many
disagree. Try the hoppers out before you buy them
and see how you feel about them.

-Ricochet series:
The Ricochet series has a flap inside of the
neck and every time a ball hits this flap, it sends an
electrical signal to the paddle inside the hopper and
it spins. This hopper, unlike the revolution (and
many other hoppers) agitates every time you shoot,
which makes it fairly efficient in feeding. It was
designed to deflect balls, which i hear it does (i've
never witnessed this on mine). It's available in both
the ak and 2k model. The Ricochet 2k has an LCD
screen in the back which has a timer, counts how
many shots you've fired (which is also done by the
flap in the neck), has reload alarms and timer
alarms. The Ricochet AK, has a window on the side
of the hopper so that you can view how much paint is
left in your hopper. It has no screen or alarms, but is
still very effective. Another feature on both the AK
and the 2k model is that they have o-ring enforced
necks, so the hopper is sure to stay tight on your
elbow. The hoppers only feed about 13 balls per
second, so if you plan on exceeding that, i'd defiantly
recommend a different hopper. Overall it's a great
hopper-well built, good customer service, does
exactly what it's supposed to, and reasonably priced
at 65 dollars.

-Revolutions and Empire Reloaders
The Revolution series (9 and 12 v) have a
sensor in the neck of the hopper. If it ever senses
that a ball isn't in the neck, a propeller inside the
hopper will agitate, and stir the balls up so that they'll
drop into the neck. The 9volt series spins slower
(less battery power, it only feeds about 6 bps) and
only has 2 paddles. The 12volt spins faster (more
battery power, feeds about 15 bps) and has four
paddles. The idea behind the hoppers is good, but
they are poorly made. The feed necks are
notoriously fragile and, in my experience snap
insanely easily. The shell could also stand to be
a little bit stronger. The Empire Reloader takes
the same shells as the revolution but replaces the
electronics of the hopper. It makes the hopper
sound activated so that every time your gun fires, the
paddles will spin, which makes the hopper feed
faster and more efficiently. But again, i, and many
people, have had serious problems with the shell
quality of these hoppers and i would seriously
recommend against them. These hoppers are
made by ViewLoader, and go for about 50 dollars.

-EvLution II
The EvLution has the same sensory system as
the Revolution hoppers. If a ball's not ready, the
paddle will rotate and will feed one. The difference
between the EvLution II and the Revolution is, for
one, the propeller itself. The EvLution has a JVON 6
propeller that's made of flexible rubber so that it isn't
rough on paint (as you probably concluded from the
name it has six paddles). It also has a "Raceway
feeder shelf" so that it actually feeds the paint rather
than just mixing it up. It feeds (roughly) seventeen
balls per second and it does this very efficiently. I've
heard of some people having shell problems (feed
necks being so big that they can't fit it on which
causes it to fall off of the gun is the one i've heard
most commonly, but that's nothing that can't be fixed
with a little sanding), but my experiences with this
hopper have been nothing but positive. I like the
"hinge" door feature and i actually do feel that
you're able to load more easily and with less spills
with this feature. Another positive feature on this
hopper is the speed adjustment. You can adjust the
speed of the propellor with nothing more than a
finger nail. This means that you can customize how
fast you need the hopper to feed. If it's feeding too
fast and double feeding, you can turn it down. If you
want your batteries to be more efficient, you can turn
it down. If you want it to feed faster you can turn it
up--A truely great, unique feature. It has a longer
feed neck, which makes it feed slightly faster, but the
downside is that it makes this hopper a bit taller on
top of your gun. Some people hate the blimpish
looks of it (i did at one point too) but when you adjust
to it, it really isn't bad. Overall, in my opinion, a great
hopper for anyone looking to take a step up in their
feeding capabilities. It is my current hopper of
choice. The Evo II's go for around 75 dollars.

The HALO TSA hopper is a sound activated
agitating hopper (it works much like the Reloader).
Every time it hears your gun shoot, the paddle will
agitate and mix the balls up inside of the hopper.
What's unique about this hopper is that it has
Tilt-Activation, which means that the hopper is
sensitive to what position you're in and the propeller
will move to suit that position. This can be very
handy for those times when you angle your gun for a
shot. It feeds about as fast as the ricochet's but the
tilt-action makes it more efficient in the feeding
process. Only criticisms are the length and the
noise. It's fairly long, and fairly noisy in feeding, but
those are fairly unimportant in the grand scheme of
things. Well made and reasonably priced (at about
70 dollars).

This is copied right from the odesy website,
because they can do a much better job of explaining
it than i can. I've only ever tested the HALO B, but
i certainly liked what i saw.
True Force Feed:
The HALO B is unlike any paintball loader ever
designed. It is a true force feed loader that keeps
tension on the ball stack . This allows the HALO to
actually accelerate (faster than the gravity limitations
other loaders have) balls via spring tension into the
marker. It also prevents the marker from disturbing
the ball stack with blow back pressure.

Computerized pre-feeding:
The HALO's built in computer monitors the motion of
the ball stack, feeding when motion is detected. This
ensures that a gap in feeding never occurs (unlike
other loaders which use their sensing system to
actually detect a gap - meaning a gap is REQUIRED
before they feed more balls - creating a design

Spring Tension:
Halo's feed system uses a drive spring. This spring
is used to store the energy that is used to tension
the ball stack, and accelerate ball feeding. The
computer controller and motor are used to keep
tension in the spring - the spring does the actual
pushing of the ball stack.

Sensor Limitations (Black Paint):
The Halo's sensor system works by detecting
motion of the ball stack using infrared technology.
Some black shelled paints are infrared absorbing so
that HALO has difficulty detecting them. Because of
this, we do not recommend you use black shelled
paint (or half black shell paint) with the HALO. All
other colors work fine (including dark blue, purple,
A word of warning, however...If your gun has weak
detents, the HALO is said to feed so strongly that it
can cause double feeding.
The HALO B goes for around 110 dollars, for
more information see

-Warp Feed
I'm getting increasingly lazy so this is copied from
AGD's site:
"The Warp Feed is the worlds first pressure feed
system for paintball markers. Instead of relying on
gravity to feed your paint, the Warp positively and
gently pushes a steady stream of paintballs up and
into your breach! The system is a friction drive
utilizing soft urethane disks in the feed wheel. The
disks actually grip the paintballs on their sides and
will allow the balls to slip when they are finished
feeding a ball. In this way the system can not jam or
crush paint. The mounting bracket provided bolts to
the bottom of the grip frame and will allow the Warp
to swivel to the most comfortable position. The Warp
has two main benefits, first is reliably feeds
paintballs faster than you can possibly pull the
trigger and second it removes that large blimp from
the top of your marker!! The Warp can be activated
just by the adjustable vibration sensor when the
marker fires or can be directly interfaced to your
Emag or other electronic marker."
Like the HALO B, i've only ever tested the
warp. Overall i really liked it. It increases the feed
rate of your hopper (for instance, a ricochet feeds 13
bps, but a ricochet atop a warp feed can feed about
16 bps). The warp has so many positive aspects: it
moves your hopper to the side of your gun, which
lowers your profile significantly (as long as you're
shooting out of the proper side of the bunker), it
increases your feed rate, and it allows you to shoot
at awkward angles (with your gun tilted) since it
doesn't rely on gravity. When i shot it, my only
complaints were that it wasn't quite as comfortable,
because i constantly had the warp hovering to the left
of my gun. But, i've heard that once you adjust, this
goes away, and i didn't really get a chance to adjust
because i only shot with it for one or two games.
Another issue i had is that, during games, i shoot
left-handed just as much as i shoot right
handed...Thus, for half of the game, i was actually a
bigger target than i would be if i just had a hopper
sitting on top of my gun. This alone is reason
enough for me to not buy the warp feed, but for
those who don't shoot switch-handed a lot, it's a
great upgrade. If you shoot an AGD gun, you can
pick up a warp for about one hundred and thirty
dollars, but if you shoot a different brand of gun, you
can pick one up for around one hundred and eighty
dollars. Bear in mind, though, that the Warp is not a
hopper, it requires a hopper to be put on top of it.

Where should i buy my hopper?
The following is a list of the best online deals that
i could find online. If you know of a better deal,
feel free to post it.

BK&aitem=3&mitem=8&back=yes&dept=160 has
both the rico ak and 2k for the same (very cheap)
price: 59 bucks.

12v Revolution- Revvy's can be purchased at
2v-revolution-loaders.html for 45 dollars.

Empire Reloader- You can buy reloaders at
mitem=8&back=yes&dept=160 for 48 dollars.

EvLution II-
sells EvLution II's for 72 dollars (black, they sell clear
for eighty).

HALO TSA- You can buy the HALO TSA hopper
for 69 dollars at

has the HALO B available for 109 dollars.

Warp Feed- The warp is available at
&mitem=8&back=yes&dept=160 for 109 dollars.


Part II, it was so long, it broke it off and I had to re-do it.

<This comes from evil98, I'm tired and don't want to edit it, but you should understand>

Read All Directions Before Purchasing The Items & DO NOT RUSH THROUGH ANY OF THE DIRECTIONS. If you would like me to do it for you, you can send your stock or double trigger to me with your name and address with $30.00 and they only come in black. I will do every thing for you and sure make it look great. I do not have trigger guards.

What you will need:

1. a piece of aluminum (The measurements are in detail on the bottom)

2. stock 98 custom trigger

3. paper, pencil, an exacto blade, copy machine…etc.

4. heavy duty vise clamp

5. a metal cutting band saw

6. super glue and super glue bondß---(very hard to find, it is very old but it works very good)

7. metal filers

8. some wood

9. primer paint, paint color of your choice, and clear coat

10. fine grit wet sand paper

11. mid grit automotive sand paper wet or dry

12. some materiel around the house

13. Jigsaw, or saber saw

14. DERMEL sanding tools *optional*

Well I have been doing this for the locals for some money; I can always tell you how to do it. Or you can sent it to me and I’ll do it for you for $30.00 bucks

1. Get the stock single trigger and sketch it as close as you can on paper.

2. Draw the design that you desire on that piece of paper that you sketched the stock trigger on

3. Go a local hardware store or machine shop to buy a piece of metal about 3/8” thick at least 3" tall and it doesn't matter how long it is (the smaller the better but not too small so if you mess up you can do it again)

Get it in aluminum alloy it is about $4-5 dollar (its by weight so the lighter it is the cheaper)

4. After you have got the metal and the drawing photo copy the drawing so you can always have a back up drawing.

5. Cut the drawing out like a template so you can trace it on to the metal. trace in permanent marker so it doesn't come off when you cut it. it is always better to trace it again after you have traced it with the marker, but this time crave it so you can always see it.

(When you make the template make such you only cut the new piece that is going on to the stock trigger out of the paper)

6. If you have the tools then go a head and cut out the trigger. it is okay not to cut in detail you can always go back and sand all the curves out later.

7. Now sand it in detail to the look that you desire. (use metal filers, the best one to use is the one with a round side and a flat side)

8. This is the hardest part. now you need to cut between the metal so it has a opening that is about a 1/4” between the metal and about 1” up and down.

Use the vise clamp to hold it and cut it with a jigsaw, if you don’t have a band saw. It is always better to have heavy duty tools. Sand between the metal after you sand the trigger until it fits tightly on top of each other.

(When using the vise clamp always have wood on the sides of the trigger to protect it)

*It ca be cut a little thinner than 1/4” if you want to sand the trigger thinner*

9. Sand the both sides of the stock trigger until it is about a 1/4” thick. (sand only the highlighted parts)

10. Now use the vise clap to hold the trigger and mold it on with the super glue and super glue bond.

(The super glue bond makes the super glue really strong, it will be strong enough)

11. sand it smooth, apply super glue and super glue bond where needed. (you should put it in the front of the trigger and sand that down nice and smooth)

12. Now paint it, don’t paint the top of the trigger just what you see.

Make sure you have a control spot to paint in. Hang the trigger in the air with a coat hanger or what ever you have. Every set of paint must be painted at once. You can not paint on side then the other. DO NOT TRY TO RUSH THIS PROCESS.

Do not over spray

1. Put about 2-3 thin coats of primer. Let the paint dry between coats. Leave the primer to dry for about 2-3 hours or until it is safe to touch.

2. Now paint it in what every color you want. 2-3 nice sticky coatings. Let the paint tacky between coats. Leave the paint to dry for about 8-9 hours. It is better to leave it for 24 hours just in case.

3. Now apply the clear coat, there is really no limit to the coating on the clear coats. I say about 3-5 coats of clear coat is good. Let it dry for a full 24 hours. Recoat any time.

That is all that you have to do. Have fun with it, never try to rush the process. It takes a great amount of time to finish this project and quiet a bit of money. I’m not responsible for any of you mistakes. Do this at your own risk.

The Measurements in detail



so you want to lighten your trigger?

1. pen spring mod (go find a clicky pen, and take the spring out of it and cut it so that it is the same sizes as the stock: if the trigger does not feel lighter then stretch out the spring and cut it to the same size as the stock again. if you start to have double fire problems (shooting more then once on one pull) then the spring is too light< try again but try to do what you did before but lighter (i.e. not stretching it as long, cuting less links, different springs (brass, aluinum, steel)
3. trigger stop (there are two ways to make a trigger stop, 1. on the trigger guard (drill a 1/8 hole in the double trigger guard near the bottom of the trigger, then go and get a 3/8 or 1/4 8-32 set screw, and a 8-32 tap, tap the hole screw in the set screw and adjust it turing right untill the trigger stops firing, then slowly turn left untill it barly fires, then tune it untill you like it) 2. in the frame (go and get a large enough tap for the RT hole and tap it, then go and find a screw either hex/phillp with the trigger mesurements to the tap, and screw it in) ^^ adjust as above.)
5. pretravel and overtravel screw(pretravel screw is a set screw that adjusts how fast back the trigger goes when its idling(sitting there ready to be fired) overtravel screw is a set screw that adjusts when the trigger stops (aka trigger stop) so all you need is the pretravel screw, since i explained the trigger stop above, all you have to do is get a set screw that i said about in the trigger stop, (1/4 3/8 8-32) and tap the trigger return, screw it in adjust and fire.
7. sear mod(sear mods are simple just get either a small diameter straw and put it where the sear rest, this couples with the pretravel screw.

this is all that you need in a trigger job

Speed ball trigger mod

evil-98 wrote:

just drill a hole where the trigger return spring pushes against the trigger, and put a set screw aka (grub screw) by taping the hole to the mesurements of the set screw, screw it in adjust it to the slider and the trigger will have a shorter pull

but this is the problem the if you try to adjust your trigger so that it is really short the "Trigger slider" will do what it is supposted to do, it will not shoot. instead of getting under the sear it will be right in front of it. the spring inside the trigger where the trigger slider is will just make you pull the trigger and not shoot.

there is a way to make it really short, but you have to mod you trigger slider. it is quite easy

take the trigger slider out and you have to sand it down is that the trigger needs to be pull at a much longer distance. but since you have the grub screw where the trigger return spring goes you can easily adjust it to like a 10mm pull or shorter depends on how you did the slider.

mines is at 3 mm. but mine is heavily modded

"disclaimer; it is not my fault if any of your actions screw up you trigger"

make the slider lower so that without adjusting the set screw, it will have a extremely long trigger. then adjust it to the new slider, and get it to a even shorter pull.

"disclaimer; it is not my fault if any of your actions screw up you trigger"

but i think that the slider is stainless steel, so its pretty hard to sand. i might be wrong.

i cut mines so it was easier than sanding it.

DERMEL are the best to use

^^this is to adjust the pretravel, the overtravel is adjusted by the trigger stop. this is really good but you need to do good work with the trigger slider. if you adjust it and do every thing right you will not need a trigger stop. the trigger will be to close so there is no need for a trigger stop. 2-3mm

Doing it in detail

you drill a hole where the trigger return spring is and you tap it to the mesurements of what every size grub screw the you have.(this is to adjust how far the trigger stops after you shoot)(trigger stops are to adjust the trigger after the sear has been setted off< so you dont have to pull the rest of the pull that you dont need after the sear has been setted off) after you have tapped a hole where the trigger return spring is on the trigger, and putted a grub screw there you will need a new spring since the grub screw will push down on the spring too hard and making the trigger return hard. now you need to mod the slider so that the pull is extremely long so you can adjust it with that grub screw on the trigger so that it is extremely short (up to 2-3 mm pull mines is at about 2 mm) the slider needs to be either sand it down, or cut it with a DERMEL rotartary drill. only sand or cut what is sticking out ot the trigger, mark it so you know where to stop. make it like a "L". after you have moded the slider, now adjust the screw that is on the trigger return and it will be a really short pull if you get it short enought you wont need trigger stops.


revy mod

this mod, is to make you revy up to caliber with better hoppers.

this will change the 12v voltage regulator to a 18v voltage regulator, that will eat you batterys faster but, the servo motor will spin faster. this is what i was going to do

things that you might need

1. 24v servo motor
2. 18v voltage regulator
3. 24v rechargeable battery pack
4. 6 prong (or custom weed wacker mod) <-- works with regular 4 prong
5. intelliget feed mod.
6. pretty good skills with soldering, drilling, wiring, and stuff like that

first off, rewire the 12v servo motor to the 24v servo motor, switch the 12v V.R. to the 18v V.R. (this you do not really need to do, but it would make the servo spin faster) then wire the new battery pack in, and intelliget you hopper. test and let it rip

Effective Upgrading

1) When buying upgrades for your gun remember it is your gun, you have to ask yourself what do I want to change, not what the people on the forum want to change. You also need to decide what type of gun do you want,(ex. speedball, woodsball, scenario, etc.), answering this question will be key in buying upgrades.

2) It is mutualy agreed that stock barrels suck, most always the first upgrade to buy is a barrel, many people have varying opinions on this subject. Some popular models are Lapco Bigshot, J&J Ceramic, Flatline, Boomstick, and many more. Barrels also vary in price, they range from $35 to $150. Buget also plays a role in upgrading, however more expensive does not always mean better, I believe that a Bigshot is just as good as a Boomstick though there is quite a price difference.

3) The next upgrade is usualy air, you must decide if you are willing to pay alot for the superior Nitrogen, or if you are content with Co2. Most say nitro is better but all say nitro is more expensive so once again the old pocketbook comes into play. However if you do stick with Co2 you will definiantly want to buy a good expansion chamber, these help to keep your Co2 consistent and they keep liquid out of your gun.

4) After you have air and a barrel, you need to make a choice, what type of play do I want my gun to excel at. If you want a speedball gun you may want a drop forward or a fire power upgrade like an R/T and an electronic hopper. Maybe you want a woodsball gun so you get a scope or a remote line. You can also get upgrades for looks, like fake magazines and suppresors, many players get their guns painted, the posobilities are endless.

5)In my expirience 1/4 of the fun in paintball is upgrading and showing off your gun, however this can be expensive and frustrating. As you upgrade your gun remember that it is your gun and that there is no limit.

<more from evil98>
pen spring mod

things that you need

1. (1) pen spring (you might want more so that you can play with it)
2. (1) A-5

well its basicly what the title is. you get a clicking pen and take out the spring. now take apart the trigger assembly and take off the stock sear spring, and cut the pen spring to the same size as the stock's. if you want the pull to be a bit littler then how it already is. then cut the spring so that it just slides into the spacer and the sear without forcing it in. so the spring just drops in.

this will conclude to a lighter trigger pull


maginet sear mod

things that you need

1. (2) rare maginets
2. (1) A-5

again the title is what the mod is. you bacily take to strong rare earth maginets and flip them so that the reple each other. the sear is steel so the maginet will just stick on the the sear without a problem. the spacer is a bit different. you should get a round rare earth maginet and a square earth maginet. the round one for the spacer and the square one for the sear. the round maginet can be forced into the space between the spacer. the other maginet can just stick to the sear. this is a great mod.

this will conclude to a even lighter pull. (aka walkable)

evil-98 wrote:

there is nothing more that i can expanded on it.

all you do is put a strong rare maginet on the sear (where the sear spring pushed up on) and one on the trigger spacer (where the sear spring sits)

how can i be more specifc??


trigger stop

things that you will need

1. (1) set screw or regular screw
2. (1) regular power drill
3. (?) assorted drill bits
4. (?) taps
5. (1) A-5

ok a trigger stop is a great mod. it means what it is. it stops the trigger, it stops the trigger from going any further then it needs to. when you pull the trigger you only need to pull enought to trip the sear to release the hammer. well on the A-5 the trigger stop is a big mod. it helps alot. all that you have to do is either drill a hole on the trigger guard near the bottom of the trigger (preferably). after you drill the hole then you tap it to a set screw measurement (preferably 8-32 1/4" or 3/8"set screw). or you can tap the RT hole to a regular screw and screw that into it. then drill a hole on the back of the frame so that you adjust it from the back. now for adjusting it. first cock the A-5 then slowly pull the trigger and at the point of fire adjust the set screw forward untill the A-5 Barly fires, then slow adjust backward so that it pulls with eases. adjust to your likings

this will conclude to a shorter pull


sear mod

things that you will need

1. (1) small diameter straw (about the same size of the pin)
2. (1) slightly bigger then the first straw
3. (1) set screw (preferably 8-32 1/4"or 3/8"or 1/2"set screw what ever works)
4. (1) regular power drill
5. (?) assorted drill bits
6. (?) taps
7. (1) A-5

this is a mod that will either make or break (well not phsicaly break). there are two ways of doing this. you can either use straws, or a set screw. with the set screw is adjustible so it is better. but it is a bit harder, you need to drill and tap a hole on the spacer that holds the sear spring to an angle prefectly if you were to put a set screw there and you adjust it forward that it will push the sear upward when you push the sear foward like the hammer does(the set screw is what i mean by break, if you do it wrong there is no way of fixing the spacer unless you replace it). the other way is that you can cut a straw 1/4" long and put the straw with the same diameter on the pin that the sear rests on, then put the slightly bigger one over the smaller one. if you start to double fire then take the bigger one off. this will make the sear higher so that the pull is lighter and more snappie

this will conclude to a lighter and snappier shot


pretravel mod (preferably with the sear mod)

things that you will need

1. (1) set screw (preferably 8-32 1/4"or 3/8" set screw what ever works)
2. (1) regular power drill
3. (?) assorted drill bits
4. (?) taps
5. (1) A-5
6. (optional) vise clamp and drill press)

the pretravel mod is to adjust the prefire of the A-5. this wil make the trigger pull very short preferably done with the sear mod. all that you have do is drill a hole where the trigger return spring so in the trigger or more further so that the trigger return spring can still work right. then tap it to the set screw. screw it all the way so that the set screw is hidden. then assemble it all back together. ok so with the sear mod there is alot of prefire movement. so adjust the screw upward a quarter turn at a time, untill it doesnt fires, then a quarter turn at a time downward so that it fires barly. adjust to your likings.

this will conclude to a shorter pull


maginet return mod

things that you will need

1. (2) rare maginets
2. (?) super glue or some type of adhesive
3. (1) A-5

this is a simple mod that anyone can do. just go and but 2 round rare maginets and force on into the trigger spacer, and another that is reverse polarity. either cut the nub off of the trigger return spring of sand it down, and glue the maginet on. that is it

this will conclude to a longer lasting trigger return


no slop mod

things that you will need

1. (1) sheet of very thin aluinum i.e. like hair line
2. (1) Dremel
3. (?) super glue or some type of adhesive
4. (optional) shear
5. house hold material

this is a pretty nice mod. all that you have to do is take the sheet of aluinum and trace out the trigger plate on to it(preferably smaller then the plate). then cut it out with a shear if possible. after that either drill or sand out the hole for the safety if you need to. then sand the trigger plates down with either 80-60 grit sand paper so that the glue will stick better. then you can glue the aluminum sheets to the out sides of the plate and use the Dremel to sand the inside of the A-5 down a bit so that the trigger assembly fits in with out any movement between the trigger assembly and the inside of the A-5. that is it

this will conlude to a less or no slop trigger

So You Want To Buy A Tank

So you finally want to give up the CO2 tank and drop some cash on a Compressed Air Tank. Sounds like a plan. Hopefully the following FAQ will help guide you in the decision making process.

Tank Manufacturers

There are only three companies that make tanks for Paintball.

Carleton CylindersCarelton
Luxfer Cylinders Luxfer
Structural Composite Industries SCI

These three company’s supply the tanks for the various manufacturers, then the manufacturers just put on their own regulator.

Tank Distributors/Sellers

Below is a list of people that slap on their regulators and sell them to you.

ACI Nitrogen Systems-Make the Bulldog I,II,III nitro tanks. ACI

**Air America-Make the Me’lee,Raptor-Rex,Apocalaypse,Armageddon tanks Air America

Airgun Designs-Make the Flatline tank

Centerflag-Make Dynaflow and Hyperflow tanks, and others,limited sizes and kinds.

*Crossfire-Make a multitude of tanks that come in every size and shape.

DYE-Make the Throttle Air System. Come in a limited number of sizes

EVIL-Make the Scion tank.

Java-A division of Kingman, make the Java tank in various sizes.

PBN2-Distributed by Various sizes.

*PMI-Pure Energy Tanks, made by PMI. Come in various sizes.

Smart Parts-Make the Max-Flo tank. Various sizes
Smart Parts

System X-Make tanks of various sizes. Do not recommend..
System X

WGP-Worrgas tanks. Limited sizes.

WDP-Angel AIR tanks

*Denotes Recommendation

Types of Regulators/Threading Types

Tanks will either come in two different kinds of mounting systems.

First is the standard threads that are on screw in tanks, these are the same threads as CO2 tanks have, so if you can screw a CO2 tank into the ASA, you can screw a Screw-In Nitro system into that ASA.
The second type is mounted, which are mounted on some sort of Dovetail and don’t screw on.

High Pressure/Low Pressure
Tanks that are not adjustable will either come High Pressure or Low Pressure output.
High Pressure is usually set around 850 PSI
Low Pressure is usually set around 450 PSI

Types of Tanks
Tanks will either be Steel or Fiber Wrapped. Fiberwrapped tanks are much lighter than steel tanks, and cost more. Steel tanks generally cost less money and are heavier than a Fiber Wrapped tank. Fiber wrapped tanks require a cover, and need to be treated with more care.

Hydro Date
Every tank that comes from one of the above makers will have a Hydrostatic Test date on it, as by regulation. Some older tanks have 3 year old Hydro dates. That means the tank has to get hydro tested ever three years. For example, if the test date on a tank. Say the hydro tank is 11-AA-01 the tank needs to be hydroed before the first day of November,2004. On a 5 year tank it would be November, 2006.

Shots Per Tank
3000 psi tanks get about 10 shots per ci (cubic inch). for example a 45ci tank gets about 450 shots per fill.

4500 psi tanks get about 15 shots per ci. a 45ci tank will get about 675 shots per fill.

5000 get about 20 shots per ci. A 45 ci tank will get about 900 shots per fill.

Tank Care
If you get a Fiber Wrapped tank a decent cover is a MUST. It will protect your tank from scratches and dings, while making it last longer. The less scratches and knicks your tanks get, the better for its life expectancy. Steel tanks do not require a cover, but one is nice because usually the cover will have rubber on the back to help the tank grip on your shoulder.

Personal Recommendation/Thoughts
I personally use and shoot an Air America tank, I wouldn’t trade it in for the world. Lifetime warranty, which means if something is wrong with your tank you’ll only have to pay for parts. I live 20 minutes from them, so it’s a huge plus. I once walked in to get a simple fix (Piece of debris got into tank) and not only did they remove the debris, they went above and beyond and took apart the regulator and gave it a full cleaning and lube job. Excellent service and wonderful people.

And whatever you do…..stay away from Angel AIR..its overrated.

Your paintball marker needs maintenance and adjustments. It is not a toy!

~1~ The first step in caring for your gun is to read the manual. You should be able to identify each part of your marker by name and functionality. You should be comfortable with removing the bolt assembly of the paintball marker to do a proper cleaning. CAUTION: never use anything but approved lubricants/oil on your paintball gun. Petroleum-based lubricants can swell the o-rings and cause problems.

At least once a month, or before playing, do this little maintenance routine: drop 4 to 8 drops of oil in the ASA adapter (the piece where your CO2 or nitrogen bottle fits.) Remove the barrel, attach your gas cylinder and fire about 30 shots of air through the marker. This spreads the oil throughout the entire marker, without getting any in the barrel.

After each day's play, you should strip your paintball marker down and clean out any bits of paint from broken paintballs. After removing any paint, oil the internals. You don't have to "coat" a part, 1 to 2 drops is usually sufficient. Then use your finger to spread the oil all over the part. Make sure to oil the bolt and striker/hammer pretty heavily, especially where there is considerable wear.

~2~ To keep your CO2 tank o-ring from being destroyed during removal of the CO2 cylinder try unscrewing your cylinder about 1/2 to 3/4 turn (which disengages the pin on the CO2 cylinder valve) and firing your marker until all pressure is relieved. This will remove the pressure that may damage your o-ring.

~3~ Jammed bolts are common. Bolts jam when a piece broken paintball wedges between the bolt and the inside of the paintball marker body. The key to popping it loose is to basically pull or push it hard enough to break it free. To soften the paint, you can flush that area with hot water. With markers like the Autococker you can just grab the back-block and pull as hard as you can to pop it loose. The key with other markers is to push it loose from the front with a stick-type squeegee. I strongly recommend taking off the barrel. If you have broken shell jamming your bolt, chances are you have a broken shell and paint in your barrel as well. The last thing you want to do is shove more of that junk back into the bolt. Once you’ve popped your bolt loose, strip the bolt, and squeegee your receiver and barrel out. Squeegee cleaning clears all the garbage out and helps ensure you won’t jam again. If your bolt keeps jamming up despite squeegee cleaning, it’s time to check your feed tube, elbow, and hopper. Chances are that you broke a ball up in the hopper or chopped one and sprayed paint and shell fragments up into your feed tube. If you break a ball inside your hopper, dump your paint and clean out the hopper/loader with a clean cloth.

~4~ If your marker is breaking balls. A: turn down your rate of fire. B: check your ball detent as it should be only finger tight. C: make sure your velocity in no greater than 300 fps. D: keep your loader/hopper full. E: if you recently upgraded to a new barrel or bolt, try using the original parts again. F: check your paint, if it is misshapen, old, swollen, etc. that may be your problem. G: make sure your barrel is clean!

~5~ Is your gun sputtering? The o-rings may be worn or dry; therefore, try replacing or lubricating the o-rings. Maybe you gun needs oiled. You can take out the bolt, take off the barrel and then run a good quality squeegee through the chamber (make sure no fibers are left from the squeegee). Now that you have the bolt out, rinse it in hot water, dry it off completely, oil the bolt, and oil the o-rings and the hammer. Finally, if you shoot too fast and too long with CO2 your marker begins to freeze up (this is bad for the o-rings) and CO2 begins to leak around the o-ring causing it to sputter. This condition creates a reduction in pressure and if the pressure gets low enough, the bolt will not be pushed back far enough to cock. Therefor you may need to get an X-chamber or palmer Stabilizer. Or if you want even better performance get HPA.

~6~ Should you need additional instructions or help, check out the manufacturer’s web site for technical tips. Generally, a toll-free telephone number is provided in case you need to speak with someone directly. Remember, if the gun is going work properly, it needs to be used properly. Just like a car, or a motorcycle, or even a bicycle, it is a machine, and it does require maintenance.

~7~ Read the manual, buy some oil, learn how to properly clean the barrel and your gun with a squeegee and oil/water/ect.. If you can’t figure something out, remember that you have technical support available through the manufacturer or Go to some online Forum most people are rather helpful. It Doesn’t have to be a forum that your gun is (Spyder, Angle, Tippmann, ect.) all forums well help you best they can. And don’t whine to mom and dad about the gun being defective if you are not willing to invest your time to learn about the gun.

What order should I upgrade???

Well, here's a good plan for starters:

1. The barrel, the barrel, the barrel. Although it's not the most necessary, it's the most common first upgrade. This upgrade procedure is so common that paintball marker manufacturers (like Tippmann) don't even waste time selling a gun with a "good" stock barrel. A "pipe with threads and holes" is a good description of what stock barrels are, so the first upgrade should be/ usually is a barrel. For range, a Flatline is the only way. It's got a pretty decent accuracy, but it's pricey. Other good choices (cheapest to expensive) are the J&J Ceramic, Lapco Bigshot, Smart Parts All-American, Dye Ultralight, Freak Barrel Kit. There are many many more, but these are a few favorites among the forum users.

Here's where it gets kinda shaky- depending on what type of air you have, your route will be different. Nitro users, skip down to the Nitro Upgrade path. CO2 or those doing nitrogen/ HPA later, proceed as planned.

NOTE: CO2 is stored in tanks (yours and filling stations) as a liquid. Now realize when you exhale, that's CO2 (carbon dioxide). In order to store that gas and pressurize it effectively, they have to make it a liquid. To do that, they freeze it so the gas molecules are moving so slow they can't "fly" through the air. And it's very very very cold. What happens to a cold glass of soda when you sit it down? Water vapor condenses around it. The same will happen inside your gun and barrel- the o-rings can freeze if they get too cold and bust, and water will build up in the gun and in the barrel (and even the hopper) and can cause the gun to rust (when the bolt gets scratched up enough) or your paint to become brittle (paint is water soluable) and break in the gun/ barrel.

2. Since you are using CO2, it's a good idea to protect your investment. You can do this while improving your gun's consistency by a little under 10 percent. Why now? Well, before you start shooting your gun 15 times a second with firepower upgrades, you don't want to bust any o-rings or damage your gun/ paint. You can either purchase an Expansion Chamber (gives more room/ time for liquid CO2 to warm up enough to expand to gas where it's safer to use in the gun) or a stabilizer (works like x-chamber but also regulates the amount of pressure entering the gun). If you plan to upgrade to Nitro, it be best to purchase a stabilizer, since it can be used with both (note: only certain ones work for both- Bob Long Torpedo and Palmer Stabilizer just to name a few) CO2 and HPA. The Dead On Paintball 8 Chamber X-core expansion chamber and the Palmer Stabilizer are favorites of most of the forum users.

3. Next is firepower, regarding the Response Trigger or the E-grip[A-5 only]/ E-bolt[98 Custom only]. There are other posts that explain these, but I'll do a little bit of detail. The R/T uses excess gas, and to go full-auto you have to sweet spot it, which can be difficult to get used to. R/Ts are also banned on some fields because they are uncomfortable watching players get hit by full-auto bursts of 15 balls when it takes only 1 to call them out. The E-grip/ E-bolt are electronic (9 volt battery) and are easier to use and have different modes of firing (semi, full, 3-rd burst, turbo[E-grip]), thus making these legal at all fields (certain modes of fire can be banned, but semi-auto cannot be banned, as all guns are [usually]). The E-grip is a sear tripper (metal rod electronically thrown up to shoot the gun, think really fast finger) and the E-bolt is an elctro-pneumatic bolt (much more complicated). Both E-bolt and E-grip are capped (shoot no faster than) at 15 bps, while R/Ts are known to go above this when tuned correctly. Most will suggest the E-grip, due to its ease of use and versatility, plus it's average $30 more than R/T. The E-bolt, however, is much more pricey at about $145 more than the R/T.

4. Now here's the fun part. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

5. Now here's when I suggest mods. I think it's best to wait to get over the sticker shock ("I just drilled a hole into 260 dollar gun!!") before doing anything that could screw up the gun. Mods include painting, trigger mods, air vents, etc. Check out this site for some ideas.

Nitro Upgrade Path

2. Firepower is your next upgrade. Choose between the R/T or the E-grip/ E-bolt. The R/T uses excess gas, can shoot faster then E's, is more difficult to use, and may be banned at your local field. The E's are easier, use batteries, are legal at all fields, have different modes of fire, and cost more ($30-$145 range) than R/T.

3. Now you may want to increase the consistency of your HPA. Get a regulator next. The most common on these forums (and favorite) is the Palmer Stabilizer.

4. Next is open upgrades. This point of upgrading is based solely on what you want. I'll cover a few basics-
Drop Forwards- they move the ASA (tank screwy-in thingy) down and forward.
Stocks- a device attached to the back of a gun to steady the gun and reduce recoil by bracing it against the shoulder. There are fixed stocks (non-moving), folding (can move out of way when you don't want it), and adjustable (slides forward or back to adjust length). Generally, a remote line is used since tanks usually interfere with stocks.
Milsim Accessories- these range from new Grips, fake mags (like AK-47 mags), all the way to launchers, sight rails, bi-pods, etc. etc. These are completely your call, since it's your gun.

How to replace the snap ring on your CVX valve with a C-clip.

I got tired of messing with the snap ring on my CVX valves so I went to some hardware stores in search of suitable replacement. I found that a 1/2” C-clip fits perfectly in place of the snap ring. I got the C-clip from Lowes in the nuts and bolts section, in one of the weird parts drawers. I’m not sure if they come in different thicknesses so you might want to take your snap ring along when you buy it to make sure.

You will also need some C-clip pliers to install and remove the C-clip from your valve. I didn’t feel like blowing $15 on some pliers, so I modified some cheap needle nose pliers to work.

Super light 98!

I drilled 17 - 3/8" holes in the grip handle. then i ground out any unnecessary lugs or excess material in the grip, and around the vertical adapter. I took my dial venier calipers and measured around all the seams and ground out all thick lips and made the seams the same thickness all around the inside. i ground away half of the slot where the linkage rod slides. the pistol grip is about 1/8" smaller (my dye3 grips just slide on now). both front and rear sights are comletely gone. i took out the o-ring that the hammer hits on the return cocking stroke and put in 3 rubber washers ( that shortened the stroke approx. .150") then i shortened the rear bolt (hammer) .025 of an inch. i also filled in the slot in the sear so it dosen't slide it just piviots. that took .100 of an inch off the hammer travel. i put a trigger stop in but it takes out the trigger slop before you pull(my trigger has approx. .010" travel before it trips the sear, and only about 1/8" total travel). both sight dovetails are gone and i have a ccm spyder clamping center feed neck. i used "Quick Steel" to fill in the cocking slot and to make the mounting surface for the center feed. the stock hammer from the full boar rear cocking system is lighter than the tippmann hammer, but i turned mine down .010 of an inch (not much weight taken off) but it never rubs on the inside if the receivers - less drag. i use the maddman green spring.

I did not create most of this information and give full credit to those who did, I only assembled and added a few things to this. ^Pirate^.

I am NOT responsible for you screwing up your
marker. You are at fault for your own actions.

I am uber sorry for my long, but helpful, posts, also, LONGEST post EVER.

There has been many people wanting to know how to make their mehanical triggers walk-able, so I decided that I'm up to the task to put together an article that has it all.

Step 1: This is for those people that still have single triggers. You're not going to be able to walk a single trigger, so first we need to make a double. This can be easily dont by cutting off the bottom where it starts to bend, drilling a small hole up through the middle, and glueing something round up there. One easy thing to use is a hex key. Be carefull when doing this because if the hole is too small then you can crack the trigger. After you are finished drilling it, find a allen wrench that fis snug, but so you can get it up there. (god that sounds stupid) Use either epoxy or JB Weld to glue it in, then measure for length and cut off the part where it bends. Me and RedBull both did this and currently use it on our setups. In fact I had a GTA double and sold it after using this.

Step 2: If you already have a double trigger then the first thing that we are going to do is get rid of the slop in the pull. This can be done easily by finding a drill bit with a diameter of .1285 inches, or if you cant tell, one that fits more snug into the pin hole in the trigger. You want to put this in the front one from which the trigger pivots on. This will make it less wobbly, and shorter in some cases.

Step 3: The next thing that we are going to do is go ahead and make a rear trigger stop. This will get rid of all the excess pull after the sear is engaged. There are a few ways to do these and I will start off with the rear. (hehe) This can be done by tapping the R/T hole, and putting a screw in there. The right size tap for this hole is a 1/4-20, and then you need a 1/4 20 threaded bolt. You can either put the head inside or outside. If it is outside then it will be easier to adjust, but if it is inside then it will look nicer. It is up to the user. Or you can use your single trigger guard. To use your single trigger guard, cut it near the end where it goes into the bottom of the trigger. You can now do a few things, either A- just file it down and do not use any screw, just use the plastic. B- File it down until it is flush, drill out a hole and tap it using a set screw (recommended 5/16, with 4-40 tap), or C- do the same as "B" but use a regular screw. Either way will be fine.

Step 4: Now we are going to make a front trigger stop. This will help to shorten your pre trigger pull. There area few ways to do this. The "best" way to do this is to drill a hole through the part of your trigger where the spring rests. Then you can tap it and put a set screw in there and have it fully adjustable. You can even go another step and drill a a small hole in the bottom of the gun to make it adjustable from the outside. Another way to do this (or if your lazy) is to apply some duck tape or something on the power tube between that and the trigger. I highly do not recommend this because it is not very good cosmetic wise, and it is a pain to adjust by layering tape. Here is a few pics of some Evil triggers that have set-screws...

Step 5: The next thing to do is to polish the recievers where the trigger moves on. This helps to get rid of the powdercoat and it will make your pull smoother and possibly lighter. This can be done either with a dremel and buffing wheel, or steel wool. With either application you should use mothers or some other polish.

Step 6: The next thing to do is to change some springs. I suggest either getting rid of your trigger spring, or replacing it with a pen spring. It will work fine with no spring because the sear will reset it, but if you dont want it flopping around when you have no air in it, and it is not cocked, then go ahead and throw one in. Another thing that you can do, but I don't necessarely reccomend is to put an extra link in your sear spring. This will make the sear lighter and and in turn the trigger pull. If you do this wrong though it can lead to double firing, so only do this if you have a good understanding of the gun. Another thing that you can do, but I certainly do not recommend is replacing your sear spring with orthodontic rubber bands. These wear out and can lead to double firing. Some people swear by this mod though so try it out and see if you like it. The last spring that can be changed is the drive spring. You can either replace it with the green one from the maddman kit, or the lpk rear cocking apparatus. Either will lessen the weight put onto the sear, making it easier to trip.

Step 7: Practice, practice, practice... Practice, and more practice.. There ya go NN...

This should make your trigger pull very nice, and if done right, probably walk-able. I take no responsibility if you ruin any part of your gun by doing any of these mods. Thanks to Evil-98 for letting me use his picture.. And NN and _m98_ for their hel
....i found this, i didn't write this.

Updated 6/23/04 This should be complete now. Velocity Adjustment Screw is now added. Additional Info which is located bottom of this thread.
Hopefully this helps a few of you guys.
The one on the left is a Low Head Black-Oxide Finish Screw. These are heat treated for strength and are the ones that comes with your Tippmann 98 Custom. The one on the right is an 18-8 Stainless Steel Screw and they offer excellent corrision resistance.
Notice the difference in head heights.Low Head screws will be flush to your receivers, where as the 18-8 S.S. screws will be sticking out from your receivers a little under 1/8".
You can pick these up from your local hardware store (maybe),,paintball stores or Tippmann themselves. Please note that you won't find these odd lengths. It's better to go long and cut to size (so that the screw thread end is flush to nut).LOW HEAD BLACK OXIDE FINISH CHART:
Now these are the EXACT sizes that are on your Tippmann 98 Custom!A) Low Head Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1 3/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex KeyB) Low Head Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 21/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex KeyC) Low Head Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex KeyD) Button Head Hex Screw, #6-32 x 3/8" R.H., Use 3/16" Hex KeyE) Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 27/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex KeyF) Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 1 3/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex KeyG) "Inside Grip Panel", #10-32 Square Nut R.H.H) 10-32 Hex Nut R.H.I) Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 7/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex KeyJ) Button Head Hex Screw, 1/4"N.C. x 1" R.H., Use 5/16" Hex KeyK) 1/4" Standard WasherL) 1/4" N.C. Square Nut R.H.M) Button Head Screw, #8-32 x 1/4" R.H., Use Philips Head ScrewdriverW) 5/16"-24 x 1/2" Length Setscrew, Cup Point, Black Oxide Finish Or 18-8 S.S., Use 5/32 Hex Key
You're probably asking "Why the odd lengths?". Yeah, that's what I thought too. But let's say for the smaller receiver screws...If you use 5/8" in length, it's too short. If you use 3/4", it's too long (the threads stick out too much from the nut). Here's what I did: I bought a bunch of #10-32 x 1 1/4" and cut them to length using a boltbuster Or you can use the bolt cutter on a wire stripper if you're manly. As for the bottom bolts that hold your tank adapter or drop forward, I recommend using a #10-32 x 1" for both. It works fine.
18-8 STAINLESS STEEL CHART]The reason why I am showing this chart is because the Hex Key (or Allen Wrench) that you use are A DIFFERENT SIZE than the one that you use on the Low Head Black Oxide Screw.You can buy them again at a local hardware store (maybe), paintball stores, OR through eBay. Again, buy them long and cut to size.N) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 21/32" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex KeyO) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1 3/32" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex Key P) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex KeyQ) Button Head Screw, #6-32 x 3/8" R.H., Use Philips ScrewdriverR) "Inside Grip Panel", #10-32 Square Nut R.H.S) Socket Cap Screw, #10-32 x 1" R.H., Use 5/32" Hex Key T) 10-32 Hex Nut R.H.U) "Not Shown", Button Head Hex Screw, #10-32 x 7/32" R.H., Use 1/8" Hex KeyV) Button Head Hex Screw, #8-32 x 1/4" R.H., Use 3/32" Hex KeyW) 5/16"-24 x 1/2" Length Setscrew, Cup Point, Black Oxide Finish Or 18-8 S.S., Use 5/32 Hex Key[/P]
The 1/4" Screw, Nut & Washer on the feed elbow are the same spec's as the Black Oxide Finish.
ADDITIONAL INFOI would like to add that the following is ALSO available:-Low Head Black Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel-Standard Head Black Oxide 18-8 Stainless Steel But be aware, there may not be all the sizes available for you to fit your 98C if you are sticking to a certain class. For instance, I don't think you can find anything longer than 1" in a 10-32 Standard Socket Cap Screw in Black Oxide Finish 18-8 Stainless Steel

There are two ways to polish the internals of a 98c. one way is to use steel wool...

it cost about $2. you can find it at any hardware store. but make sure you get the right kind....

...make sure you get #000. as shown in this pic. you don't wan't to messup your gun or anything. first step...

take apart your gun. remove all the inernals. then clean up all the gun oil that is on the left and right receivers..

...when you start polishing the receviers...

....the best place's to start are the, back and front bolt areas, in the area were the linkage arm moves Around, in the area were the sear moves around and any other place you feel like. just remember to polish the same areas on both recivers. also when you use steel wool to polish the 98c i may get alittle messy. so when your done wash off both recerviers with running water and dry throughly. make sure no left over steel wool is on both receivers. if there is this will cause major problems. when done washing and drying put gun back together and you are done.this will help your 98c in the long run...
the other way is to use a dremel tool. i don't have one yet so if someone has one please post how to on this thread, thank you. using steel wool is the cheapest way to polish the internals but not the easiest way. also if you own an a-5 you can polish your internals also the same way you can a 98c.

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